I have never been obsessed by Paris. If forced to choose, I’d pick London, New York and Tokyo before the capital of France – and I’ve not even been to Tokyo. I generally feel a bit insecure in Paris, as I don’t speak the language and almost expect to became the target of the arrogance of the locals. I’m also profoundly irritated by the cult of the Parisienne and the industry around it, but this rant is for another time.

That said, I’m not blind nor stupid. Paris is beautiful and hugely enjoyable, if you find your own way to enjoy it. In my experience, Paris is exceptionally ill suited for the “765-sights-in-a-day” approach. The city is so rich in history, culture, food and everything else that you’re bound to feel overwhelmed and vaguely unsatisfied. At least for me, it works much better when I can discover it bit-by-bit.*

The Petit Palais is one such small but perfectly formed bit, if you’re interested in classic art. The Louvre is of course magnificent and I adore Musée d’Orsay, but they can both be crowded and difficult to get in to. The Petit Palais, on the other hand, is less of a tourist attraction and you can get in without queuing and browse in peace. It’s also very conveniently located, very close to Champs-Élysées. And even if you only have an hour or two, you’ll have time to see most of the collection.

The palace was built for the 1900 Universal Exhibition, together with the Grand Palais next to it. It’s been a museum since 1902. As a building, it’s not the most impressive of the French architectural landmarks (the competition is crazy, of course), but it has lovely proportions and I like the touches of art nouveau incorporated into a more traditional style. There are some very elegant staircases, always a plus in a house.

In terms of art, it’s a mix of everything (western) from ancient Greece to the First World War. Mostly the usual suspects: the ceramics from antiquity, icons from the former Byzantium empire, fin de siècle vases, a couple of things from Manet and Monet… The collection of art from around 1900 is especially good and one of my absolute favourites is Georges Clairin’s portrait of Sarah Bernhardt. It is brilliantly captured and the attitude of the painting strikes me as very modern – especially in comparison to some writhing naked ladies in the very same room, Bernhardt looks intelligent and in control. And much sexier, despite being fully clothed.

Another reason I like the Petit Palais so much is the small courtyard. It’s very freeform and relaxed – not a typical French garden, there isn’t a hedge or a squirrel-shaped tree in sight. Even if you’re not an art lover and just want a beautiful place to rest after some heavy shopping on Champs-Élysées, this is it.

*I also realize I’m lucky that Paris is so close to me these days, making the bit-by-bit approach much easier.

Some images by the Petit Palais