I have been putting off writing the Autumn trend overview because frankly, there are no trends. OK, I agree, there are always trends, but there are less and less of the kind that make sense for articles like these. There are no overnight reversals in direction, no 10 pieces you have to buy, no sudden falling out of favour.

What we have instead are themes that have been around for several seasons: leather (both faux and real) is still huge, used for tops, bottoms, dresses, jackets, coats – everything. Browns, beiges, tans and creams are still very much here. Dark florals, plaid, dots, even animal print – not gone anywhere. The skirts are still over the knee (or mini and slightly A-line), sleeves are massive, necklines square, ruffles proliferate and padding rules; see the latest Chanel bag and the Bottega Veneta craze for proof of the latter. Sneakers, obviously, are the new normal.

Also in terms of mood, you have several options, most of them continuations of what we’ve seen before. The nineties and the eighties (both the punk and the power glam sides) are going strong, as they have for years now, and the early 2000s are entering the picture. There is a little bit more focus on the seventies than there has been for a while, I will return to this point in a minute.

There are still specific items that will read fresher than the rest, of course. One big shift* is on the boot front: knee-high styles have taken over from ankle boots and the perennial blogger favourite, the over-the-knee. This change started last year already, but is now in full force. As it’s a very classic trend, investing may be a good idea, as there are so many gorgeous styles around (this Jimmy Choo pair for example or these Zara ones for a buget-friendlier option). This doesn’t mean you can no longer wear your cowboy ankle boots or chunky sneakers, of course you can, it hardly needs to be said at this point. It’s also time to get out your Doc Martens.

On knitwear front, there are more cardigans and Fair Isle/Argyle styles**. I’m strangely happy to see the first, I think it takes me back to the time of Prada tea dresses (not that I ever had any by Prada, mind you) worn with cardigans on top – a look I still appreciate and that works perfectly with slip dresses as well. When it comes to accessories, pearl earrings are this season’s barrettes and in addition to chubby headbands, wearing huge bows in your hair is also a thing. However, if you want to quickly update your look with something cheap, I would go for a golden chunky chain necklace – I know, it’s not for everyone, but it screams THIS SEASON! the way very few things do at the moment.

After saying all this, I’m going to end with one counterexample, because there was one Autumn-Winter show that did manage to set new trends, a whole new look, in fact. I’m talking about Hedi Slimane’s third Celine outing and my related eating of some fashion humble pie. I was not a fan of the first two Slimane collections for the house and missed Phoebe Philo intensely, but I must admit this collection was genius. It is not revolutionary in any way, it is in fact almost reactionary in going back to a 70s French bourgeois look, heavy on tweed skirts, classic blazers and demure knits. It was also, and I mean ALL of it, the entire collection, extremely desireable.

So it is almost solely thanks to Slimane that seventies are ascending, that capes and long straight jeans are back big time, that the pussy bow, of all things, is the height of fashion. The best thing about this – apart from the fact that for a certain type of a woman this is all highly wearable – is that you may have this look in your wardrobe already. If you’ve got a tweed skirt, knee-high leather boots, a slim-fitting knit with the shirt collar and sleeves peaking out (scalloped/ruffled edges are the best), you have it. A pair of culottes, pussy-bow blouse and a vaguely riding style jacket – check. Blue jeans tucked into boots and worn with a cape or leather jacket – check again.

The most difficult part of the collection to replicate is one of it’s most outstanding. I am not big on shearling nor wedge boots, but boy do I hanker after the Celine pair. The entire collection is one of those instances where the edge of fashion and reality meet and for someone from a cold climate, these boots are a perfect symbol of that. I’m sure there will be high street versions, but I’m not entirely comfortable with copying specific items – getting inspired by the look as such is totally fine in my book, however.

Only one word of caution. Unless you are actually a member of the French bourgeoisie, I feel this look gets trickier to pull off the closer you are to the obvious target group – middel-aged, white, relatively conventional in your taste. All that tweed, silk scarves and sensible bags partly look so good on the models because their youth and modernity provides a welcome contrast. So obviously, if you are drawn to this trend, wear it your way to avoid looking like a caricature and enjoy.

What are you liking this autumn? Floral dresses with combat boots and plaid or toffee leather and cream silk?

PS The pictures here have – on purpose – very little to do with any trends. In fact, there is nothing new here, the trousers are years old now, the coat is from last autumn, the t-shirt and sneakers from previous seasons. I decided that this autumn, I will ty only to post looks that either restyle something old or include vintage pieces. This is the first in the series, as I’ve only shown this coat styled in a much more formal way, while I absolutely adore it pared with very casual items. The sharpness of the coat contrasts beautifully with the relaxed feel of the rest and looks good without trying hard. Now that it’s colder, I would add a slouchy knit or warm sweatshirt. I do promise that upcoming restyling looks will inlcude some trendy elements as well, though 🙂

*There is also a bigger shift from focus on bags as the main status symbols and fashion signals to footwear, especially sneakers, and other categories.
**I think the H&M collaboration with Pringle is totally underrated. If H&M is not off limits for you and you like cosy knits, check it out.

Coat by Guild, trousers by Zara, t-shirt by River Island, sneakers by Nike. Images Getter Kuusmaa, MUAH by Kaubamaja ladies. A warm thank you to KOMA for the location.