10 Tips for Going Bespoke ft a Dress by Oksana Tandit
Having something specially made for you is one of the great pleasures of life, and not only when it comes to clothes. I do of course realise that made-to-measure is not accessible for everybody*, but it can be a wonderful experience for those who like clothes and/or do not fit the standard measurements of the fashion business. I have a very boring body that is pretty much straight up-and-down, making it relatively easy to find clothes on the high street. Despite that, I’ve been ordering things for 15 years and this is what I’ve learned:
1. Choose wisely (assuming you don’t have unlimited funds). I believe there are two types of clothes that are especially well suited to be tailor-made: things that you’ll wear again and again and where quality matters – like a great jacket or a work dress – and things you want to be extra special – bridal and big occasion dresses are the most common example.
2. Consider the partner. One of the first decisions you need to make is whether you’ll work with a fashion designer or a tailor. If you have a very clear idea of the end result, I would opt for a good tailor. It will most likely be cheaper and it’s also a waste to use a designer for something that doesn’t need to be designed. If you don’t know what you want exactly, pick a designer whose style you love and work together to get there.
3. Do your research. Even if you like the designer’s style, you also need to consider what he or she is good at. They have different strengths, so someone who is known for diaphanous, flow-y dresses may not be the best person to execute your pantsuit. Similarly, do check out your potential tailor’s body of work.
4. Analyse yourself. It’s not only the designer you need to research. For the best outcome, you need to think about yourself and clothes. What works for you? Anything you absolutely cannot stand? What colours or fabrics you have an affinity to? Nobody else knows you and your taste better than you.**
5. Don’t be afraid. I know that going to fittings can be scary, but don’t be intimidated. Not about your body, the cost, or anything else you might be insecure about. Most designers I know are lovely people and will help you be at ease. If they don’t, I would consider stopping the process at once. This should be a pleasurable experience.
6. Speak your mind. If you are not happy with something, say so. This is often difficult for people, but do it anyway. A bespoke garment is generally a considerable investment and you do not want to end up with something you don’t like or that doesn’t fit. And remember that the tailor or the designer also wants to make something you like, so just phrase it politely (start with the things that work) and get it out.
7. But listen to your design partner, too. Of course you are the customer and the Queen, but be also open to what the designer suggests. There are many aspects of clothes-making that he/she knows better than you. How a fabric will behave, what is possible to construct and what isn’t, what generally suits people with your body type and colouring, etc.
8. Don’t stop until it’s perfect. Sometimes you try it on in the studio, everything seems fine, you go home, wear the thing, and it doesn’t work. A professional will adjust it without any charge even after you ‘ve paid. Although going back more than twice is probably pushing it.
9. Wear it often. I beg you, please just don’t keep the thing hidden in your cupboard, do wear it. Actually wearing your clothes is the only thing that justifies the spending. (Or never mind the spending – what joy is there in a piece that is not worn?)
10. Extra tip for brides: if at all possible, do not make your bridal dress your first bespoke experience. Ideally, I would order something smaller from the same designer first, to see if the chemistry is there and how the designer works.
The dress I’m wearing on the photos is the latest thing I’ve had made for me: a cashmere-blend blue grey sheath dress by Oksana Tandit. This belongs clearly to the first category of garments I mentioned earlier: it’s a work dress in a style that I’ve liked for more than 10 years and will probably like at least for another 10. It has practical sleeves and a colour that suits me and it’s appropriate for any office situation. This is the type of clothing that for me is worth the investment.*** What is worth it for you is of course a different matter entirely, but these are my 10 cents.
Photos by Caroline Sada, make-up and hair by Zoja Nova at Glow Make-Up by Lana Vallo.
* I also realise that there are people who sew themselves. While my admiration for these people is infinite, this is not the topic of my post.
**I for example like my clothes with such an extremely close fit that no designer believes I can function in them. Hah! Watch me.
***Although as you’ve probably noticed, I also have quite a few things that fit the second category…
This is a really interesting article, thank you, and the dress is stunning – the difficult to achieve but oh so worth it combination of elegant and attractive. Have you tried Amanda Wakeley’s clothes? I imagine you might like them and that they would suit you as they go for a similar effect.
Good tips on getting a dress made – I have only ever had this done by a friend who was doing it as a favour so I wasn’t going to push my views too much! You are however making me think it would be good to try, as, like you, I am tall and while some standard clothes work (especially designers like Joseph who seem to cut long) there are a whole host of things that look quite frankly ridiculous as they finish in totally the wrong place and the waist is around my ribs!
You know, I think you are a pretty ideal candidate for tailor-made stuff, especially if you have trouble with finding things that fit properly. I don’t think your style fluctuates wildly, so if you ordered a soft grey pencil skirt or a mauve silk blouse now, you would probably still like and wear them in five years. I also sense that quality fabrics are important to you and this is another good thing about bespoke: you can select the fabrics yourself and there are some truly lovely textiles out there. One reason I’m such an advocate for bespoke is that in Estonia, it’s considerably more affordable than the global megabrands (and of course more unique). I guess the difference is less marked in London, but it’s still an option to consider, especially the when we are talkig about a tailor rather than a famous designer.
I have never tried any Wakely’s stuff, but it’s elegant and beautiful – although some of it too safe for me.