12 Modern Classics for Your Wardrobe
I’ve said before that I’m interested in those changes in fashion that are slower than seasonal trends and I feel that I’m not alone in that. With the rise of the capsule wardrobe and concerns about sustainability, many people are wondering how to look current without overhauling their entire wardrobes every three or six months. The trends themselves have in fact also slowed down, at least some of them.* These more persistent of them are in turn influenced by macro-trends like greater comfort and practicality, inspiration from sport and street wear and a move towards a looser, more modest silhouette.
This post is about these items that have been round way too long to be called “trends” in the conventional sense, yet aren’t quite the absolute classics the way a white shirt, a trench or a nude pump are (there are of course trends in these, too, but that’s a post for another day). I also predict that everything here will be around for a few more seasons – in case you’ve been considering a purchase…
1. A slim-fitting rollneck. I wrote about the importance of a rollneck about a year and a half ago and nothing has really changed: it’s still a key piece for a modern wardrobe, as useful as a layering piece as it is on its own. I’m still searching for the perfect white one: I’ve got one from Uniqlo that is good under other things, but not great alone. I’m very happy with the black one I’m wearing here, though. It’s by the Estonian brand Feelwear, made of fine, soft merino wool and the quality is great.
2. Cropped jeans. Jeans have been all over the place after the fall of The Skinny, but the most stubborn trend has been the crop. Even skinny jeans look more relevant when cut off above the ankle. There are two reasons I can immediately think of to explain this longevity: cropped trousers work equally well with flats and heels and they offer a flash of skin when jeans tend to be otherwise worn with big knits or blazers, of which more later. Trends don’t exist in a vacuum, the pieces people buy have to work as coherent outfits. For example, the change in shoe shape is often reflected in the length of the hemline or the other way round.**
3. Loafers. I know everybody is sick and tired of me talking about (Gucci) loafers, but I must. While the popularity of flat shoes has been one of the biggest stories of fashion in the last decade, loafers have certainly been the poster child for this trend, at least after the demise of The Ballerina (making a tentative comeback these days, I sense). Loafers are both comfortable and rather formal, which makes them very versatile. Epecially if one can bear to splurge on a designer version, it will automatically add confidence and polish to a look while still looking relaxed. I think we have reached peak loafer by now, but they aren’t going anywhere for a while.
4. A simple silk shirt. You could say that the silk shirt should belong to the real classics list and you’d be right. I’m including it for a specific reason, however, because I still remember when you would have gone for a blouse rather than a shirt. This hasn’t been the case for years now, your silk tops should be very simple shirts without any details except pockets (you can also go for a – simple! – camisole).
5. Sneakers. You don’t have to look far to see why we have reached peak loafer: it’s the sneakers. This takeover has been years in the making with Converse, Stan Smiths, Vans and minimal Scandinavian takes all making an appearance. I’m sure you remember the time every fashion person seemed to be wearing white sneakers. It has kind of exploded now with the dad sneaker trend, but don’t be fooled – while this particular interpretation might seem silly, sneakers are the new handbags. I suggest finding a style you like.
6. A midi skirt. Fashion works in mysterious ways: who would have thought that midi skirts would be going strong for years? I’m especially astonished that pleated midis are still a thing – I thought they were over in 2013 (Whistles Carrie skirt was launched in 2011…). The truth is, I’ve got 5 pleated midis in my closet this very moment and almost every other skirt I own is midi as well, no matter whether fitted or loose. If pleats aren’t your thing, a (faux) leather version is another good bet.
7. A masculine blazer. Another ancient trend, by the standard of trends. Sure, there are small changes: one season, double breasted versions are preferred (as they are now), then it reverses. Sometimes they are more oversized, sometimes less. Currently, the main thing is to pair the jacket with matching trousers for a full suit. But generally speaking, as long as your jacket is of a neutral colour, with a moderately structured but relaxed shape and worn with sleeves pushed up, you’ve been good for years.
8. A slip dress. This nineties staple is a more recent addition to the list, exactly because it was so popular about 25 years ago. It takes time to recover from overexposure. But like its most famous wearer, Kate Moss, the slip never lost its charm entirely and now it’s been firmly back in our style vocabulary for several seasons. There are very few things that can be both cool and elegant. A simple silk slip dress – in black, white, silver, blush – can manage that and I therefore predict we’ll be wearing it for years to come.
9. A slouchy knit. If recent years have had a uniform, it’s been jeans with a t-shirt, worn with a blazer on top, dressed down with flats or up with a statement heel (you can get away with a rather flashy shoe when the rest looks so chill). OR you could replace the blazer with a big knit. I believe the UK fashion bloggers alone must own about three billion slouchy knits. Despite my sarcasm, I’m in favour of big, cosy knits, not least because they are warm. They can also feel luxurious and sumptuous, without necessarily costing the Earth. Before buying one, just make sure you can fit the sweater sleeves into your coat sleeves – in case you’re interested in this sort of mundane considerations.
10. Slogan/logo t-shirt. Did it start with the Gucci tee? I think not, but cannot remember what came before. Not that it matters, the ‘meaningful’ t-shirt is here, like it or not. It can be the discreet Saint Laurent logo, Ganni’s Love Society or, my favourite, Zadig & Voltaire saying that girls can do anything (for a great woke alternative to t-shirts, check out Lingua Franca). Again, uniforms need a little something to look less basic, a luxury logo or witty slogan will add that.
11. Very fake fur. Real fur has become less and less acceptable over the recent years while faux fur is everywhere. The key thing here is that it has to look fake, nobody wants to make a morally correct decision and still face the scorn of the world. What is the point of doing the right thing without getting any credit! Hence the popularity of faux fur in every possible colour: candy pink, bright yellow, pale blue, lavender, mint green or any combination of these. There is probably a limit to the popularity of neon fur coats, but fake fur can be used in many ways and we’ll certainly see quite a few of those.
12. Cross-body bags. Although the reign of it-bags is over, a designer bag is still the easiest way to add some polish and luxury (and status) to your look. These days, fashion lovers simply expect that the bag will deliver this to them also five years after the purchase. Hence the popularity of Chanel, Louis Vuitton and other very classic brands, even Hermes. There is another more specific trend, however, that many (although not all) popular bags have in common: they can be worn cross-body. After WAGS, nobody wanted to wear anything in the crook of their arm, on the shoulder looked too pedestrian, clutching under the arm was cool, but simply not practical. So the cross-body trend was born*** with the Chanel Flap and Boy bags the perfect modern classics.
You could of course make this list much longer, these are just items that came to my mind first. In hindsight, I realise there are no fabrics (velvet!) or colours (millennial pink!), but one has to draw a line somewhere, if one is interested in having readers. What would you add?
* I was glad to see my thoughts on this validated by one of my favourite fashion-writers in The Guardian.
** The jeans I’m wearing here aren’t the classic crop style, but roll-ups are just a variation on the same idea. The exaggerated shape is also something rather new and not necessarily super flattering, but I’m really feeling this almost balloon-like leg at the moment.
***Frankly, I have no idea how it was born, I’m just making it up.
Rollneck by Feelwear, jeans by Essentiel Antwerp, loafers by Gucci. Pictures Laura Nestor, MUAH Grete Madisson.
Glad to have had the chance to revisit the eye candy photo sesh in the pink slip dress! Also, still in love with your Alana-ish hairstyle from then, it really suits you to the 100s. 🙂
Ooooh, thank you for that comparison, I’m not worthy! That type of do is probably my favourite as well, at least on a daily basis – I’ve had something like this twice now. But I just cannot stick with a style for more than a few years (it used to be about 6 months :).
This is the perfect post! It seems I will come back to it many times. You look perfect in the pictures, so elegant but comfortable at the same time. Comfortable elegance just screams luxury! I am good when it comes to silk shirts (my favourites are by Equipment) and slip dresses. I find myself drawn to flat shoes more and more, or comfortable heeled ones (like my Dirk Bikkembergs leather sneakers with a hidden platform). Now I badly want some good qualty loafers! The jeans look so comfortable and cool. Cropped jeans are great if you want to show some skin or in my case, a collection of fishnet hosiery 🙂
You should comment all the time, you say such perfect things🙂 This *is* a very comfortable outfit and one that’s much nicer to wear than it is to photograh – nothing much going on here. And Equipent shirts obviously are the gold standard, they are perfect modern classcs.
I’ve just pared down my wardrobe in fit of spring cleaning only to discover I’m left with a few pieces I love but that don’t necessarily work together. What I’m missing I suspect are the things you mention that would pull everything together—like a silk shirt or slogan T. I’m also looking to replace my handbag (a work tote I’m tired of lugging around on weekends) with a crossbody bag. I prefer a handbag that isn’t a throwaway, but I’m not looking for a major investment piece at the moment.
A side note, I’ve been reading your blog since day one (thanks to the Now Smell This community) but I’ve been remiss in not commenting before. My apologies!
Dear Jenny, thank you so much for commenting! I’ve been missing Now Smell This lately, I used to visit every day for years and commented often, but then work and my own blog completely swallowed me up and now I’m almost embarrassed to go back. It’s one of my favourite places on the net, ever.
After a big overhaul, it’s natural if your wardrobe is not 100% functional. What often happens is that you throw away things you don’t like any more, but previously these pieces were at least THERE, so you could put an outfit together – even if you didn’t love it. I’m generally sceptical about all those visualisation exercises and tips people have for every single life situation, usually what you need to do is just common sense. But. In this case it might actually be useful to take two hours on a Saturday and try to turn your clothes into outfits and try them on. Because if this “not sure it works” situation happens to you in the mornings, it’s easy to think that maybe you’re just unable to think of the right combination at this very moment or you don’t have enough time, while – as you say – you might be genuinely lacking some key pieces. Even if you have already positively established that, you will not figure the solutions out in the morning rush. You need to calmly assess, what you are missing, what would work with the pieces you already have and nothing makes the gaps clearer than looking at oneself in the mirror, very intently. Btw, I have these issues as well. For example, I have lots of silk shirts in different colours and I really love them, but they don’t really work with my pleased skirts and other looser skirts. I don’t own many trousers, so I’m constantly under-utilising my shirts because I don’t have the right bottoms for them.
Sorry for this incoherent reply, I hope it makes some little sense. And this post might potentially be useful as well https://lifeinacoldclimate.com/rants/the-one-wardrobe-rule-that-drives-me-absolutely-insane/
Thank you for your thoughtful reply! As you sensed, one of my major problems is I’m overwhelmed—or maybe underwhelmed—by what’s left of my wardrobe. I should explain that I left my job last year and this clean-out was partly overdue because I don’t need those clothes anymore, and partly in the spirit of a cathartic clean house. However well-intentioned it was, getting rid of so much is a strange feeling, and I find myself day after day staring at my closet in bafflement. I’ve never tried planning my outfits, which means I’m usually leaving the house in a mad dash. Thank you for the invaluable advice. You’re so right, a little effort in trying to figure out things in advance would go a very long way. Also a good point about needing to be able to “see” what key pieces I’m actually missing.
Cheers to NST and Bois de Jasmin, where I’ve spent many happy hours reading. I’ve also spent a lot of time right here, enjoying your style and discernment.
I think I accidentally deleted my own reply and I suspect it wasn’t a huge loss for mankind. But I wanted to say that for years, I wasn’t a planner either and I always like(d) to think of myself as a spontaneous, mood-based dresser. And I AM, I would never wear something I don’t feel like wearing. But I’m also no longer 19, going to lectures and hanging around in random places. My life has changed and most of the time I in fact enjoy planning ahead, plus it makes everything easier. I’m not a morning person and it’s incredibly frustrating to discover that your outfit doesn’t work when you’re already late. So what I mean with all this rambling is that I suggest giving planning a try, even if you don’t think of yourself as a planner. A little practice with this will also make you much better at packing:)
I propose amending number 10 to include striped t-shirts, or adding them as another item on the list. All the fashion bloggers recommend them (especially the wannabe French girls), and truth be told, yeah, striped t-shirts are stylish (and easy!). As for cross body bags, my hunch is that smartphones are the reason for their popularity. As easy and carefree as they are, things get lost in hobo bags. Even more structured shoulder bags become a faff for an urban modern day human who is by definition semi-permanently attached to her smartphone therefore does not have time to shrug off her bag, open it and dig around for her phone all day. Case in point, the newly released Dior saddle bags have longer straps.
Yes.
Good point, smartphones have definitely been a factor in the popularity of cross-body bags. One thing is finding them in the bag, the other is that we need free hands to operate them. Regarding stripy tops: I would consider them proper classics, so on the same list with white shirts and a little black dress. To me personally, they haven’t looked particularly fresh in recent years, hence not included here.
Good point, I suppose they are. In my case, I had never considered stripes until bloggers recommended them, so I think of them as contemporary with the blogger/influencer world. But then again I started reading blogs around high school/uni age so I don’t exactly have much fashion memory to reference