Chanel clothes do nothing for me. There were a couple of seasons about a decade ago that I liked and in every collection, there is something I would love to own, but generally, Karl’s megalomania is just getting progressively more boring. If you strip away the excessive stages and the ridiculous styling, there isn’t much left. And like a 5 year old, he wants to show off EVERYTHING he’s done, without any edit, resulting in looooong and repetitive shows.

Chanel fragrances, on the other hand, I cannot live without. I could compile a top 10 out of the Les Exclusifs collection alone, but I have tried not to do like Karl and have edited myself heavily. It doesn’t come naturally to me either. So, in no particular order…

1. Cuir de Russie. Well, if there was an order, this would probably still be number one. It is, in my view, the best leather fragrance in the world and I have written about it in more detail here. The only thing I have to add is that I got up when writing this paragraph and put some on. It’s wonderful.

2. No 19. If there are two things Chanel particularly excels at when it comes to fragrances, it’s doing iris notes and a certain understated polish. No 19 magnificently combines both these things. It’s a beautiful green woody iris perfume, extremely elegant and refined. It is one of those scents that might be lost on you when you’re 17, but suddenly become relevant when you grow up.

3. Egoiste. Chanel’s recent efforts with masculine fragrances have left me cold, but Egoiste is a gem. First, it’s a wonderful plush perfume that combines spices and roses and precious woods and dark fruits without turning into a mess. Second, with all this going on, it’s a masculine perfume by a mainstream house sold at a reasonable price point. It’s a little miracle, this scent.

4. 31 Rue Cambon. I always think Rue Cambon has an affinity with No 19. There is the iris, to start with, and the impossible elegance of the composition. It is quite flawless, but I find it surprisingly friendly and accessible – less iris-centric, less dry and less green than No 19. Some people say it’s glamorous and I suppose it is, but for me, this is the perfect office scent. It never lets you down, but won’t be too disappointed if you don’t perform (sometimes I think No 19 does judge me a bit).

5. Cristalle (EdT). If No 19 is elegant elegant and Rue Cambon nice elegant, then Cristalle is bubbly elegant, if that’s possible. It’s fresh and sparkling and citrusy, but still complex and interesting. It is one of the most versatile scents that I own as I cannot think of a situation or a mood that it wouldn’t suit. I keep a bottle at work, for emergencies, and half of it is gone.

6. Sycomore. If there is a note that rivals iris for elegance, it’s vetiver (not surprisingly, No 19 has a fair amount). Victoria at Bois de Jasmin says that vetiver is such a complex note that it’s almost a perfume in itself. It’s green and woody and vegetal and nutty and many other things at the same time. Sycomore is, possibly, my favourite vetiver and there is a lot of tough competition in this category. It is slightly smoky and quite dark, but still impeccable. Irresistible on the right man, ravishing on the right woman.

7. No 5. I don’t really do No 5: I find the aldehydes harsh and the classic jasmine-rose combination too classic. It just doesn’t speak to me. But it is a piece of perfume history and if you’d like to wear it but have been struggling, I’ve got two recommendations for you. From the different ends of the spectrum – try either the pure perfume version or the hair mist. The extrait is rounder and fuller than the EdT and EdP and the hair mist is simply softer and easier to wear. I spray it all over.

Honourable Mention: Coco Mademoiselle. I could not, in good conscience, include it in the best 7 or 10 or even 20, probably, with fragrances like Bois des Iles and 28 La Pausa or the original Coco not mentioned. But I used to wear this assertive, crowd-pleasing fruit and patchouli fragrance with abandon and I still think it’s enjoyable, even if I have moved on. The best starter Chanel, in my opinion.