8 Cleansers: A  New Favourite and a Rant

8 Cleansers: A New Favourite and a Rant


The most frustrating times as a blogger are not the times when you don’t have anything to write about (I rarely have those moments, there’s always SOMETHING), but the days or weeks when you have things to say but no time to say them. My notes app currently looks like a graveyard of abandoned blogposts. And I feel I have written a similar introduction to many a post in the past…

Anyway, upwards and onwards. I know I owe you an overview of my skincare routine and it’s coming, I’m just waiting to include a new night-time retinol. Meanwhile, here is a look at some cleansers I’ve used in the least half a year. They are all new-ish, although not necessary brand new releases. Some I love, others not so much. Let’s start with the ‘loves’ and move on from there.

1.D’DIFFERENCE 6D Cocooning Gel-to-Oil Cleanser and Make-Up Remover. D’DIFFERENCE is an Estonian brand and I have talked about their gentle acid toner in the past. They sent me* their new gel-oil cleanser before it was launched for testing and feedback (note to brands: this is how you do influencer engagement) and I fell in love immediately. It is exactly the type of cleanser I like the most: it has that balmy jelly texture that feels great, removes all makeup (because it’s oil-based), is easy to remove (it emulsifies beautifully) and doesn’t strip the skin. It works well both to get rid of the makeup and to cleanse the skin, so you’ll be perfectly fine with this as your only cleansing product. The closest equivalent I’ve tried is Jordan Samuel’s Aftershow Treatment Cleanser, which is probably my favourite cleanser of all time. And honestly, I think D’DIFFERENCE matches it. I prefer this Estonian newcomer to similar products by Emma Hardie and Eve Lom, two of the heavyweights of the cleanser world and I’ve been reaching for it for months now. The only issue I have is that if you are outside of Estonia, the price-point may not be for you. The 34 euros it costs in Estonia is fair and well worth it, in my opinion (although obviously still not for everyone) – especially considering it’s a small brand investing heavily in product development.

2. Plenaire Rose Jelly Gentle Makeup Remover. This is another ‘soft jelly’ cleanser and it’s lovely. I only had a travel size of this and used it as my gym cleanser until I ran out. If I could justify another cleanser purchase right now, I would get it immediately. To my mind, this is the closest I’ve found to the vibe of Glossier’s Milky Jelly Cleanser, although Plenaire is no dupe (it’s also more expensive). It is especially lovely as a second/morning cleanse, but removes makeup decently as well. As you can guess from the name, it smells of roses, in a delicate way.

3. Holifrog Tashmoo Water Lily Nourishing Milky Wash. Another nice one and much lauded on the skincare blogs I follow. I’m generally not a huge cleansing milk fan (with the important exception of Biologique Recherché), but this one has a slight jelly-ish element and is just plain pleasant. I imagine it would be fine also for drier and more sensitive skins than mine and a good addition to any cleansing connoisseur’s stash. I would however not use it to remove makeup and I’d say it’s pricy for what it is (it’s slightly better value in the States than in Europe).

4. The Inkey List Oat Cleansing Balm. This product is pretty much the opposite of the first three: it has absolutely zero bells and whistles and is affordable. It’s an oily, unscented balm that does what it says on the tin (tube): it gets everything off. It’s very effective and generously sized, if a bit joyless to use. But if you’re looking for a no-nonsense first cleanse, this is a serious contender. A word of caution: this is best removed with a cloth, as it doesn’t emulsify that well.

5. Indeed Labs Watermelon Melting Balm. No, it’s not on the picture, because I had forgotten I had it. I know… This balm should perhaps have come before The Inkey List one, as I like it better as a product: the texture is more refined, it feels more luxurious and is easier to wash off and the scent (although almost non-existent) is nicer, too. But in the end, it’s very similar and more than three times the price, if you factor in the size difference. If money is no object, this is a good and convenient option, especially for dry and sensitive skins. Otherwise, The Inkey List provides a great alternative.

6. The Inkey List Salicylic Cleanser. I must admit that it’s not among my favourite ceansers to use, but I absolutely understand why it exists and how it would work well for many other people. As the name says, it’s a cleanser with salicylic acid, so mostly targeted at those who suffer from breakouts. With its rather liquidy, gel-like consistency, I think it will also be better suited for those with combination and oily skins. When I have breakouts, I tend to use a salicylic lotion rather than a cleanser, but I do grab it occasionally when I feel especially congested or sweaty. As with all The Inkey List products, the price is fair. Second/morning cleanse only.

7. Elemis Superfood Facial Wash. I feel rather bad putting Elemis so low on my list, as it’s actually a decent cleanser. I was just expecting more and was left vaguely disappointed. I’m not even sure WHY I don’t like it – probably because it’s too much of a gel (as opposed to a jelly) for my taste and too foaming, which I really don’t like these days. However, if you are someone who would appreciate an update on an old school fascial wash, then this is worth checking out. It’s very much on trend with the green colour and superfood theme, too. Like the number 6 on my list, this is not for makeup removal.

8. Augustinus Bader The Cream Cleansing Gel. If you have read any of my previous pieces on beauty, you know that I am willing to spend significant amounts on skincare, cleansers included. I also very rarely complain about prices, as nobody is forcing me to buy anything – if the price isn’t right for me, I’m just not the right customer for the product. And it’s not my place to judge what other women are willing to pay for things. I did, however, get very annoyed with this Augustinus Bader cleanser. On paper, it’s exactly my thing – a luxurious, light hybrid. While it’s not objectively a bad product, for this amount of money (about 55 euros) I really do expect more than ‘fine’. It doesn’t spread easily on the skin, the texture seems slightly off and I don’t like the smell at all. The Ordinary’s Squalene Cleanser beats it on every front except the packaging – and actually even there, if you travel or carry your cleanser around. The heavy blue bottle is beautiful, but not necessarily practical. All the hype around the Bader products is based on them being exquisite, the epitome of luxury. After trying the light cream (nice, but not hydrating enough for me) and the cleanser (fine, but underwhelming) I remain unconvinced. Unless you are a skincare enthusiast with money to burn, I would not recommend this cleanser.

Huh, that was a bit of a rant – I was seized by righteous anger. Have you tried any good cleansers lately? Or the bad and the ugly? Do tell.

*They have since sent me two more tubes and some other bits and pieces. This has had zero influence on my firm view that this cleanser is brilliant.

6 Comments

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  1. 1
    CC

    Charcoal soap from Japan, any brand, available on Amazon. It foams creamily, gets it all clean, doesn’t smell bothersome and it looks cool in black. Costs about two dollars. Lasts for ages. When I’m tired I move back to the Shu Uemura unsurpassable cleansing oil – that I am surprised not to see mentioned that much at all.

    • 2
      Ykkinna

      I bought one of those soaps when I was in Japan. When I grow up and become a responsible, sustainable person, I will also only use this! Shu Uemura is still regularly raved about by bloggers I rate, but I feel balms offer the plusses of oils, while feeling nicer, so I haven’t really used oils much recently. That’s purely a question of personal preference, though.

      • 3
        CC

        Ha. No virtue signaling intended – I guess I have not been finding a good and pleasurable start of the day lately. I much prefer cleansers with a good scent and that might be one ask too much.

        • 4
          Ykkinna

          I don’t mind a bit of virtue signaling in case some virtuous behaviour is in fact taking place:)!

          Most of my current cleansers don’t smell or have a very delicate scent and I’ve just realised I miss something that smells properly good. It might be the Lockdown Effect at play.

  2. 5
    Andrea

    Englisch

    Thank you for your review. I really appreciate your content. It was through you that I got to know and love BR cleansing milk. When it comes to cleaning, we have a few common favorites: de Mamiel Cleansing Dew and Balm, Mahalo unveil.
    I’ve always found AB overpriced and your rating underlines impressions. Looking forward to see more from your actual skincare routine.

    Stay healthy Andrea

    • 6
      Ykkinna

      Ah, de Mamiel and Mahalo are great – you made me miss them, because they both smell amazing and this is something that my current rotation tends to lack. I have just got another BR milk, however, as I feel I must have it at all times.

      And of course as soon as I say I want nothing more to do with Augustinus Bader, they launch a cleansing balm and I feel like I should try it…

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