Japan: Drugstore Skincare Haul
My skincare tends to be quite spendy, but there are exceptions (most notably this). And there was no way I would leave Japan without buying some of their legendary drugstore skincare, because SCIENCE. Curiosity is not only responsible for cat deaths, but also huge sums of money I’ve spent on beauty products. So here’s what I got, with my first impressions:
1. DHC Deep Cleansing Oil. The Japanese are serious about double cleansing, which there usually means an oil to remove makeup followed by a foaming cleanser to cleanse the skin. The DHC oil is probably the best known first step cleanser and popular also outside of Japan. It’s olive oil based and works well, but it doesn’t rival my absolute favourites – Tatcha and Caudalie oils. DHC has been on the market for a long time and I feel the formula shows its age a bit: it’s thicker and less elegant than some of the newer ones.
2. Shiseido Senka Perfect Whip cleanser. In Japan, Perfect Whip is everywhere. If DHC is a beloved first cleanse, Perfect Whip is probably the best seller for the second step (and much cheaper than the oil). I don’t like foaming cleansers and although the Japanese versions don’t include sulphates, this one hasn’t changed my mind. You need to lather it up before using it, not on your face, and that’s too much fuss for me (it takes time and/or special tools). And it has a crazy high pH, not good news for your skin.
3. Cure Natural Aqua Gel. Another extremely popular product in Japan, this is technically an exfoliator. As I use pretty tough acids to exfoliate, this gentle product is a morning cleanser for me. It’ll make your dead skin cells come off together with the product in tiny balls (not unlike the Ginvera gel I really like) and it’s very satisfying. My face feels refreshed and clean, but not stripped.
4. Powder cleansers. If you don’t like a foaming cleanser as your second cleansing step, you can go for a powder. These are rice-based, contain enzymes and often also other gently exfoliating ingredients. If you’re familiar with Tatcha powders, you know the deal. Suisai Beauty Clear Powder and Kose Hadakiwami Powder Wash are two of the most popular in the category and both are good. They leave my skin squeaky clean: not something I’m usually a fan of, but sometimes this is what you want. The individual packages are also perfect for travel.
5. Hada Labo. Asian brands in general tend to be good at hydration and Hada Labo is an excellent example of that. If you are after a budget-friendly hyaluronic acid product, Gokujun Hyaluronic Lotion is great. It doesn’t do anything miraculous, but it hydrates very well, the bottle is huge and the price is extremely reasonable. I use this as a “first serum” (after cleansing, acid toner and hydrating toner, if using) – it’s clear and runny and very focused in its action, so I feel I can easily add another serum on top. I also bought a milk from their newer brightening range that is a bit thicker, like a traditional Western serum. No idea about long-term benefits, but it does hydrate well like all Hada Labo products.
6. Lululun sheet masks. These sell like hot cakes (“sell like sheet masks” might actually be a Japan-appropriate metaphor) in Japan, as they are super affordable, but still (relatively) effective. You get seven sheets in a resealable package that costs under five euros. I tried the pink version (hydrating) and they are clearly meant for Asian teenagers with dainty little faces. Although too small for me, the sheets are otherwise comfortable and do hydrate, but not exceptionally well. Best for people who use sheet masks often but have serious budget constraints. Or if you just want to try the concept without a big financial commitment.
7. Obagi Vitamin C serum. I would not have known about this if it wasn’t for Tokyo Beauty Book, but as she recommended it, I had to get a bottle (mine is the 10% version, there is also one with 20% that I unfortunately didn’t see). It’s very difficult to assess a serum after only a few uses, but there is an immediate brightening effect and it *feels* like it’s a good one. Apparently it has the same form of vitamin C as the super-expensive CE Ferulic by SkinCeuticals, so if you are a serious skincare nerd, you might want to look into this.
8. Oshima Tsubaki Oil. Camellia oil is to Japan what coconut oil is to the health-hipsters of the West: used on everything from hair to face to body (not for cooking, though). I haven’t really tried it properly, but I wasn’t overly impressed after the first use: it’s pretty greasy and doesn’t absorb as fast as I’d like. My sister has used up a bottle and says it’s OK, but nothing special.
9. Sunscreen. If you buy one thing in a Japanese drugstore, make it a sunscreen. The formulas offer very high protection and have amazing textures. Western sunscreens tend to be less effective (especially in the US where not all ingredients are approved for use) and much thicker and greasier. The best Asian ones are featherlight and also work as make-up primers. The only negative I’ve found is that they contain alcohol, but I’ve been using them non-stop since my return from Japan without any issues (your mileage may vary). My absolute favourite sunscreen is Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence (SPF50+/PA++++) – wonderful slightly gel-like texture, feels amazing on skin, acts like a primer, doesn’t cost much. Anessa Perfect UV Sunscreen Water Booster (also SPF50+/PA++++) is a classic and also great – I like the small cute bottle for travel.
PS I have no idea why the photos look so hazy, they seemed fine on the phone screen. Sorry!
Aw yess, been waiting for this! Arrived in Tokyo yesterday and now i know to skip some purchases that the internet generally praises.
I guess I’m fairly difficult to please, but especially if one is dry/dehydrated, some of the stuff needs to be approached with caution. And just like in the West, not everything that is popular is amazing. Jealous of you being in Tokyo!
Fun list – and thank you for explaining how the Perfect Whip is meant to work, I used it without making it foamy first and wasn’t that impressed. I suspect I have reached skincare product overload and am trying to pare back but I rather enjoy reading about products to decide what is worth investigating when I am next needing anything.
Even if you get the Perfect Whip to work, I don’t think it’ll be comparable to your best cleansers. I’m trying to slow down my purchases as well, or maybe more accurately, try to focus on things that I’ve wanted for a long time and/or would realistically perform as well or better than the stuff I already have. But the blog of course motivates me to try a wider range of products, as not everyobe is willing to drop 150 euros on a serum. Like you, I enjoy the “research” bit and that actually often helps to keep my spending in check, as reading and comparing fills a similar need as actually buying stuff. Do you have any particular favourites at the moment?
I am on a rather dull but effective regime but I have discovered a rather wonderful sunscreen – Elta MD SPF 46, and a rather good general moisturiser, Obagi Hydrate, which do what they should without any problems. I would say the sunscreen is the best I have tried and sits well under makeup.
I’ve heard great things both about Elta and Obagi. The thing with very effective, more clinical brands tends to be that they’re are a bit dull. That’s why I like to have nice cleansers and mists and masks, to have that indulgent element as well. And something I can rotate.
Alert to Estonians: Obagi Vitamin C-serum is sold at Ülikooli Apteek. The 10, 15 and 20% (58, 69 and 86 €). My only concern is about the dropper package. How is yours behaving after few months of use? Is it gone darker. The sample at the shop today was really brownish orange. I discovered some other interesting Japanese products.
This dropper situation is driving me crazy, too – not only with Obagi, most of my Vit C serums have it. So far, all of them seem to be behaving well. I was just thinking about Obagi the other day and the fact that it’s been open for more than 4 months now, but the last time I used it it was still completely transparent. I’ll check again tonight to be sure. With constant use, you’ll probably get through it fast enough and avoid any potential issues.