When I said that I bought an obscene amount of beauty products in Japan, I wasn’t kidding. To be able to do more than just mention everything, I’ve divided my haul into five categories: high-end skincare; high-end makeup; drugstore skincare; drugstore makeup; tools and thingies. I’m starting out with the first, as it’s one of the smallest groups (!) and because I’ve already used several of the products on the list and formed an opinion.

Quite frankly, I think there are more interesting things happening currently on the Korean skincare market (and maybe even on American) than in Japan, but there are undoubtedly some great things available in the Land of the Rising Sun. This is what I bought:

SK-II Facial Treatment Essence. This cult essence was a repurchase: I’ve been using it for a few months now more-or-less every day. It’s full of Pitera, SK-II’s signature ingredient and it’s the biggest bestseller for the brand. It’s difficult to say what it does exactly, but my skin looks better and feels more hydrated on the days I use it, so now I’m reluctant to leave it out of my regime. I think the other reason I like it is that as a skincare obsessive (I think it’s time to admit that’s what I am), I want to get a lot of good stuff on my face and a powerful essence lets ma add a layer without actually feeling like adding a layer. I think it makes less sense for people who want to streamline their routines and get it all done quickly.

SK-II Facial Treatment Mask. Another cult item in their line-up, this is an expensive mask, so I initially just got one individual sheet to see if it’s worth the hype. And it IS good (I have used it already, that’s why it’s not pictured). Is it worth the crazy price tag? It depends. If you are a skincare nerd who can afford to spend on things like this, go ahead. It will make your skin plumper, more hydrated and generally better. If you’d have to save up, I say go for a good facial or a serum that will give you more permanent results.

SK-II R.N.A.POWER Radical New Age Cream. I went all in and bought a full size of this – possibly the most expensive item of skincare I’ve ever bought. I don’t usually get excited by creams (I reserve my enthusiasm for cleansers and serums), but this is a beautiful product. It’s richer than I normally go for, but not too heavy and leaves my skin soft, supple and well moisturised. I used up a mini size very quickly and decided it would be perfect for autumn-winter when I need more nourishment. No regrets so far.

SK-II R.N.A. POWER Eye Cream Radical New Age(mini). I got this with my R.N.A cream purchase and I’m really liking it. While I love my Dennis Gross and Kate Somerville retinol eye creams, I’m occasionally craving something more moisturising. This is rich but very light and a pleasure to use. It’s also somewhat less eye-wateringly expensive than the face cream.

I’m going to use this opportunity to add that I also like the SK-II cleansing gel: I had a mini of this a while back and I really liked it. I did not buy it this time, as I had to prioritise, but it’s a great morning/second cleanser.

Astalift Renewal Jelly Aquarista. Astalift had disappeared from my radar with the disappearance of the brand from the UK market. But then Sali Hughes talked about it in her new book and I realised I could finally buy it when in Japan. It’s a somewhat strange brand as it doesn’t belong among the luxury ones available at the big department stores (it’s made by Fudji), but it’s much more expensive than your average drugstore fare, so I’ve included it in the high-end overview. Jelly Aquarista is the flagship product of the brand: an anti-ageing nutrient rich red jelly. With all the acids and retinol I put on my face, I feel I need something plumping and boosting to counteract all that “taking away”. Jelly Aquarista is perfect for that – effective and easy to use, you can layer it whenever and wherever you like. I’ve tried other products (the lotion – a mini is included in the picture, the essence, the cream) from the range and liked them all, but the original jelly is my favourite.

Astalift Renewal Cleansing Gel. And this is my second favourite from the brand. I really like modern cleansing gels (see also above) and this is fantastic. It has a slightly balmy texture, spreads beautifully and doesn’t foam, but creams up nicely when you work it on the skin. It’s one of my favourite cleansers at the moment and you know that’s saying something. If you come across Astalift products, I do recommend giving them a try.

Albion Infinesse White trial set. Albion is one of the traditional Japanese skincare lines that is well known and respected in the country, but less so outside. I wanted to try something brightening from them and had my eye on the Excia White line, but the sales assistants convinced me that I’m not wrinkly enough yet and I got a selection of Infinesse White products instead.

The set includes two cleansers, a milk, a lotion and a serum. The cleansers are nice, but nothing I need. The Melting Deep Cleanse does has a beautiful balm-oil-gel texture (a bit like Algenist Genius, but lighter and softer), but it didn’t get entirely rid of Japanese mascara. The rest is – based on mu very brief experience – really good, high quality skin care. The Albion regime is a bit counter-intuitive: you use the milk first (the texture is quite think, like a light cream or lotion), then pat in the lotion (that is more like a toner or essence) and then follow with the serum – you can also add the cream from the same series on top. These steps, even without the cream, will give you beautiful, supple, nicely moisturised skin. It’s obviously way too early to say anything about brightening. The products include Tranexamic Acid – an ingredient I don’t know well, but seems to have quite a bit of research behind it.

Albion is a somewhat old-fashioned brand: quite serious, with rich textures and proper scent, no gimmicks. I think it would be great for someone who appreciates quality and a feeling of luxury and wants a structured routine and one brand to stick to. If you like to mix and match like I do, it might be a bit more difficult to figure out which product and where to incorporate into your current set-up.

So this was the first instalment of my Japanese beauty series. Still with me?