I have procrastinated with posting, because during the last weeks, I had a vague feeling that I should write something feminist. I follow mostly the UK and Estonian media and both have recently been filled with stuff that reminds one why fighting for women’s and girls’ rights and contributing to patriarchy-smashing is important (for those who are not Estonian: #metoo has finally landed in earnest there with some seriously disturbing cases featuring underage girls – and boys, too).

In the end, I didn’t have the energy to go over, again, all the things I have said so many times already. Sometimes, speaking can actually make you feel less powerful, as if everything is futile. I also refuse to believe it’s my job to try to make people understand, to see the light. I will of course continue to address these issues, but frankly, it’s time for those in denial to do some work as well. And I know it’s not you, dear followers, who need to be convinced that feminism has a point. I’m just frustrated.

So as an act of rebellion, I decided to write about skincare. I had planned to do that a while back, but in the beginning of this year, my skin wasn’t great and it didn’t seem right to share my routine when it wasn’t working properly.  I’m not sure if it was the products or the stress or the mask-wearing or all three, but the improvement came almost immediately when I switched to the current line-up. And I have been very happy with the results for a month now.

I think (although cannot definitively prove) that this is mostly due to changing my actives. There are three main serums I currently use: Murad’s Retinol Youth Renewal Serum and Vita-C Glycolic Brightening Serum and Paula’s Choice Clear Skin Clearing Treatment with Azelaic Acid. I alternate the retinol and the azelaic acid at night and use the vitamin C in the morning – the Murad version includes glycolic acid, so the acid step is covered as well. I do take days off regularly, as these are all serious serums and if I use them constantly, my skin will get sensitive. On the plus side, my skin has been clear, as even-toned and smooth as it gets and even my PIH is fading faster than usual (it is very stubborn on my skin). On the ‘off’ days, I either use whatever hydrating serum I have at hand, or the new De Mamiel First Fix Stress Relief Serum which is lovely – but as it has fragrance, I wonder if it would work for truly stressed skin.

It is perhaps interesting to note that during my bad skin weeks, I was using Medik8 r-Retinoate Intense (the night version), their flagship product and by all accounts, one of the best retinols on the market, with the accompanying 250-euro price tag. I cannot say with confidence that my troubles were caused by it, but it certainly didn’t fix them either. Several people whose skincare knowledge I trust have raved about this cream and Medik8 is an excellent brand, so I’m not making any definitive statements. Skincare is individual and what didn’t work for me could be amazing for you. I just want to highlight my experience and advise that if you are considering making this investment, do try to sample first.

Now, for the rest of the line-up, let’s go in order of application. For the first cleanse, I have just finished the Lovinah Dragon’s Blood BHA Cleansing Oil, which is a lovely cleanser and the deep red colour is amazing. If you are one of those people who like their skincare to be a sensory experience, this is for you. I have also been very impressed by Honest Beauty’s Magic Gel to Milk Cleanser (that’s Jessica Alba’s brand). It is similar to Jordan Samuel, D’Difference, Origins, Plenaire and other gel-balm-milk cleansers and it’s wonderful. But my current favourite is probably Glow Recipe Papaya Sorbet Enzyme Cleansing Balm: effective, beautiful and smells amazing.

For the second cleanse and the morning, I really like Summer Fridays Super Amino Gel Cleanser and I often use my trusted Biologique Recherche Lait VIP O2, too. Honest Beauty works perfectly well for both first and second cleanse and when my skin is drier or more sensitive, it is often my first choice for the morning. In other cleansing news: I have now tried Face Halo and while I will never give up cleansers, it is very nice to use on makeup days – it absolutely does help to break things down faster. And it’s great for travel.

I use acid toners much less than I used to, at least the strong AHA ones – considering also that my morning serum already has a significant dose of glycolic acid. I do, however, regularly apply Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant, which is still the best BHA product I’ve ever tried. For a gentle exfoliation, I like Josh Rosebrook’s Daily Acid Toner: it’s mild and lovely. I don’t even own any of my favourite really strong acids (like Lotion P50 or Tarte) at the moment. If I have felt the need for a more serious exfoliation, I have used treatment type of products: Peter Thomas Roth PRO Strength Lactic Pore Treatment or U Beauty’s ridiculously expensive Resurfacing Compound. The latter is great, but the price is honestly insane.

There isn’t much new to say when it comes to face sprays: I still think Josh Rosebrook Hydrating Accelerator the best there is. But I have found Drunk Elephant’s new Sweet Biome Fermented Sake Spray very nice as well – it’s not a necessary step in my routine, but I do try every product they launch and as a rule, enjoy them all.

Case in point: B-Hydra Intensive Hydration Serum, still my favourite hydrating cream: it’s officially a serum, but I usually apply it at the moisturiser stage. It is very light, so I sometimes mix some DE Virgin Marula Luxury Facial Oil into it – for some reason, doing this works much better for me than applying oil and moisturiser separately. Summer Fridays Cloud Dew Oil-Free Gel Cream is rather similar to B-Hydra (lightweight, hydrating) and also lovely. The third product I use a lot in this category is The Inkey List Multi-Biotic moisturiser, I think I am on my third or fourth bottle. it is also the most affordable product on this list. Sometimes I skip the day cream stage entirely and apply Elizabeth Arden’s Eight Hour Daily Defense Moisturiser SPF 35, which gives a decent amount of hydration and moisture.

Finally, a couple of extras. Tan-Luxe Super Glow Hyaluronic Self-Tan Serum is still an absolute staple: it hydrates and gives a very subtle tan (I don’t use it every day, but it can be added to any routine rather easily or applied at any point during the day). I also have some niacinamide at hand at all times, although I think I actually prefer Paula’s Choice 10% booster to the Clinical 20% Niacinamide Treatment pictured here.

How is your skin doing? If you have any questions about details, leave them in the comments – the post was getting out of hand already.