It is said that one of the great joys of getting older is knowing yourself better. And indeed, I have recently had a moment of absolute self-knowledge: as soon as I read the ingredient list of Jallab, I knew I had to have it. Date and raisin syrup, rose water, caramel and incense – this reads like a note list for an Amouage perfume, not a syrup!

It is, however, a syrup, although as far as syrups go, this one has quite a pedigree. It is Lebanese/Syrian in origin and has been in use for hundreds of years, from the times when sugar was not easily available. It’s intensely sweet and you can taste the memory of fruits and more than a hint rose, but what makes it unique and intriguing is the addition of incense. It really seems to be constructed like a fragrance, with floral topnotes, sweet, dried fruit in the middle and the smokiness at the base.

Jallab is usually consumed as a refreshing beverage, diluted with water and ice, and pine nuts, raisins and possibly almonds added. It tastes great like that, but my favourite way to use it is to drizzle the syrup over yoghurt for instant opulence. On the picture, I have used goat yoghurt from the Bulgarian shop nearby, but any thicker yoghurt would work great, as would labneh. The plainness of yoghurt lets you enjoy all the nuances of Jallab. I haven’t had much time to experiment as yet, but I’m sure it also tastes beautiful with pancakes and cheese and many different desserts.

When using ingredients from other cultures in untraditional ways, I do sometimes feel slightly guilty. Is it disrespectful? Ignorant? Would they mind? But then I think that if anyone in Lebanon would eat kama, I would never feel anything negative, no matter how they consumed it. I’d only be glad and amazed that someone so far away is related to me through this small act. This feeling of sharing an connection seems to me to trump the need for authenticity.

I have never visited Middle East (the closest I’ve been is the Gulf countries and Cyprus) and my fascination with the culture, history and people of that complicated place is that of a stranger. So I don’t really know, but to me, Jallab is the taste of Middle East. It makes me miss places I have never visited and if the things continue as the currently are, may very soon not even exist. It is a bittersweet feeling, like roses and incense.

PS I bought my bottle from Sous Chef, but you should be able to find this in Lebanese/Middle Eastern shops and markets.