I’m not easily intimidated when it comes to reviewing perfume – it is not Newtonian physics, where there’s only one correct answer. You smell what you smell, everyone’s perceptions are different and equally valid (if not necessarily equally detailed, knowledgeable or interesting). Reviewing Trayee gave me pause, however. It is such a complex and multifaceted perfume that I’m not sure I’m able to even capture the general mood, not to mention the nuances.

I have written about Neela Vermeire’s fragrances before and in my view, it is one of the most high-quality and well-considered perfume collections around. I especially appreciate that the line is not big and has a clear focus – the perfumes are all inspired by India, although not necessarily in obvious ways (another plus). What makes them stand out even more is that the scents are not trend-led; they have a classic feel. It’s not a Chanel or Guerlain style of classicism, rather a global one, mixing different traditions and inspirations. The nose behind the entire collection is Bertrand Duchaufour, one of my absolute favourite perfumers. He has in my view done some of his finest work for NV.

If you want a simple summary, Trayee is the spicy and woody one of the collection. Which is like saying that War and Peace has some words in it. To me it starts with an almost medicinal burst of what I suspect is the ganja accord with some support from oud and vetiver. It could be something else entirely, but whatever it is, I still remember smelling this, what, eight or nine years ago? I became almost addicted to this weird opening blast, to the point where I couldn’t smell it any more – I sniffed the samples so often that my nose had gotten too used to it.

When I finally bought that much longed-for bottle of Trayee last week, I could smell the bitterness again and was overjoyed. The initial burst doesn’t last long, but a slight undercurrent of sharpness lingers for a while. On top of that, you get an intricate (I admit to overusing words ’complex’ and ’intricate’ when describing Neela Vermeire’s fragrances) blend of spices, resins, incense, woods, florals and even a bit of herbs and fruits. If this sounds like an entire catalogue of notes, it is.

Nothing really dominates, but for me the spices are the heart of Trayee. It’s always difficult to pick out specific notes in fragrances that are exquisitely blended and this is very much the case here. I can certainly smell cardamom and I think also the cinnamon bark and saffron. There is a wisp of delicate incense and resins like myrrh and elemi add a slightly darker tone. Then there are the woody notes, sandalwood most prominently, and also oud, cedar, vetiver and patchouli (the latter two aren’t technically woods, they are woody-smelling plants). Two kinds of jasmine are listed among the ingredients – I don’t smell them directly, which is often the case with fragrances that aren’t focused on florals. I know they are there though, adding some body and lightness. What I do smell for a while in the beginning is the rather unlikely blackcurrant, juicy and round.

The overall impression is beautiful and opulent, but not as rich and deep as you’d perhaps expect from the notes. The scent is rather dry and not overpowering at all, especially during the drydown. It is very far from the clichéd representation of Indian temples with their heavy smells. That said, the narrative around the scent refers to the Vedic period and that idea of spirituality does come through in the fragrance, even for barbarians like me. Despite all those luxurious ingredients, there is something almost austere abut Trayee, a certain yogic discipline that prevents it from becoming too much and reveals just enough to keep you glued to your wrist throughout the day.

Have you smelled anything from the line? Do you have a favourite?