On Dressing During the Apocalypse
If you are a regular reader, you know that I occasionally talk about sustainability and environment and climate change, but not really in depth. It’s not because I don’t think these things are important, I think they are HUGELY important – I have worked with environmental and climate issues at several points in my career and hope I will again.
The reason I’ve been relatively quiet on the lifestyle aspects of the planet actually f***ing dying are two-fold. First, I hate hypocrisy. As I’m far from being a great role model when it comes to living a green, responsible life, I really don’t feel like preaching and shouting empty slogans. Second, I do not think that the burden to fight climate change or biodiversity loss should be laid on individuals, or more precisely – individual action and lifestyle choices. We need systematic change and I have always supported that as best as I can.
Having said all that, I do think about my behaviour every day. While I am very aware that me using that paper straw is not going to save anyone, it also seems obscene not to make any effort at all. When it comes to clothes – and I’ve said it before – the first thing most of us should do is simply buy less; yes, also better, but mostly less. My problem with this is not only poor self-control, although that is undeniably part of it. My problem is that my own style personality is based on abundance: I like different moods, different colours, different shapes; I like trends and fresh ideas. Capsule wardrobes and minimalism are not who I am. So what to do? Something’s gotta give.
And I think it’s following trends that needs to give. I’m not saying I will stop buying trendy items entirely or will somehow miraculously not care about trends any more. That is unrealistic. But I can be much more selective in what I’m buying (especially from fast fashion retailers, unless they make credible efforts on sustainability front) and I can surely also find creative ways of keeping my looks fresh – through styling, hair and makeup, an occasional accessory or vintage buy.
I am not willing to resign myself to a wardrobe of neutral classics. What I am willing to do, is to have a wardrobe of carefully selected pieces, both statement and basics, that should last me several seasons. I don’t buy as many clothes as some suspect (apart from the occasionwear category, where I definitely buy more than 99% people), but I can do better. Nothing brings that message home more urgently than looking at all the stuff I already own. I can – and should – be more considered and sometimes also save up for things I truly love, rather than purchase a cheap alternative.
Frankly, I do not have it all figured out, not for myself personally nor in the context of the blog (I have addressed some pieces of the puzzle here and here). Things are further complicated by the fact that my body is changing: partly because of age, but even more because exercise has made me look stronger. The latter also means I look less slender than I used to and while that’s OK, I need to learn to dress with that in mind.
But let’s not use that as an excuse to buy lots of new clothes.
Dress Ketlin Bachmann, makeup Grete Madisson, hair Natallia at Helen Heinroos Hair, images Krõõt Tarkmeel.
PS I did not buy this dress, although I was sorely tempted. I own very similar nude and red versions and while I adore this lilac shade, I tried to be reasonable.
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What’s all this about neutral classics? Every time I read a minimalist blog or some online guide about capsule wardrobes the advice is always to buy simple pieces in beige or white or navy blue. Isn’t it possible to have a small amount of clothes in nothing but bold colours and unusual cuts? I only have four dresses for the warm season because dressmaking in Estonia is expensive and I can’t afford more. It’s about as capsule as it gets, but they look nothing like those capsule wardrobe spreads online. Does a minimalist wardrobe have to stick to a minimalist aesthetic? When people wear the exact same thing every day, why do they always choose the plainest outfit? I must be missing something.
No, of course you can do capsule (or just small or considered) without being neutral or minimal. I am totally with you on this, as you can probably guess. I do think it might be more difficult, though, for many people – neutrals are easier to mix (especially if one is not a dress person) and accessorise, people often feel more comfortable in them and they tend to date slower than prints or colours. I think an ‘untraditional capsule wardrobe’ also demands a strong sense of style and not everyone has that. So that’s me playing devil’s advocate.
What I mostly want to say, however, is that the capsules on the Internet tend to look very same-y and there is definitely space for some more interesting takes out there. I hope we will see mor of them and maybe I can contribute a bit, too.
Your expression above in picture 2 is an excellent way of taking on the apocalypse 🙂 I love trends and novelty, and have always appreciated how your posts discuss the fun and lighthearted aspects of fashion, but the sustainability debate has uncovered so many problems. Something I have realised, to my embarrassment, is that I have a ton of negative reasons for wearing trendy stuff, to do with worries about self-image and status, to a much greater extent than I was aware of (this came about when I considered not buying any new clothes ever, and all the fears came tumbling out). Planet death is a bit more serious than looking shabby or frumpy, though. I came across the phrase “trend neutral” recently, which I liked, but your shift from “trend” to “statement” gives a very clear way of rethinking the issue – positive, manageable, and engaging. So thanks!
On the subject of capsules and other wardrobe rules, one thing I know is that I am much better off when I hang on to clothes, not as an excuse to hoard, but in acknowledgement of a desire for variety and abundance. Lots of storage and shopping advice is of the “throw it out if you haven’t worn it in two years” variety, which is disastrous, and I don’t follow the “one in, one out” advice either, as that just keeps the consumption/disposal wheel spinning. I have definitely slowed down and improved my shopping habits by thinking “but if I buy it I will have to keep it and it will have to last”.
I think we need to acknowledge that most of us have a basic wish to look good and to be acknowledged by others and it’s fine. Or at least unrealistic to do away entirely. I was doing some shopping yesterday and I did wish I had brought my Prada bag, to feel more confident when entering the high-end boutiques… What I think can be done though is to see if one can employ better strategies until one manages to reach the enlightened state where appearances don’t matter🙂 For example, if a luxury bag is important to you, would you consider vintage? Etc.
And I absolutely agree with you regarding keeping clothes. There is usually a (good) reason we bought something, especially if we have been doing this buying thing for a while and know our style and body. I do get the urge to edit and cleanse, but what works well for me is to put some of the clothes away temporarily – to have a more curated cupboard – and then reassess in a month or two.