Dr Sam: Skincare for Sensible People
When it comes to skincare, I’m definitely not a reasonable person. I like things to be effective, I honestly do, but I also like them to smell lovely and to come in nice packaging and maybe include some ingredients that sound good, but don’t really do much, and sometimes I order things simply because I like the founder of the brand or because there is so much hype I feel I need to try it for the blog. It is not necessarily an approach I recommend.
If you are not like me and simply want a routine that is useful but not too long and prefer products to be straightforward, without any quackery, I salute you. I also have found a brand that I think you are going to like. Dr Sam Bunting is a well-known London-based dermatologist. If you are not from the UK, you may know her from Instagram or Youtube or from a couple of videos she did with Caroline Hirons a while ago. She is an actual expert, who has experience with many clients over many years. And she has her own relatively new skincare line called Dr Sam’s Skincare.
Like many people, I do have a tendency to trust derm brands more than random skincare offerings. It is however also very true that dermatologists are different, with different philosophies and, frankly, differing levels of integrity. I have a hard time taking someone like Barbara Sturm seriously (your mileage may vary) and while I love many a Kate Somerville product and respect her in general, I find her love of physical exfoliants surprising.
Sam Bunting has in my view always had a very clear proposition. It is simple, gentle and focused and it’s about not doing anything stupid. I don’t think I’ve ever seen her recommend a routine that’s longer than five products and she is the type of person who would not tell you to double cleanse, no matter how fashionable it is*.
This comes across very clearly in her line that currently has only four products: three ‘Perfected Basics’ – a cleanser, a moisturiser and a sunscreen – and one ‘Amplified Active’, a night serum with retinol. This is pretty much all you need for a proper skincare routine; if you are very minimal, you could get by with the three basics alone. The only thing potentially missing is an antioxidant serum for day and I’m reasonably confident it’ll join the rest of the gang at some point. I own everything but the moisturiser and will give you a quick run-down of my impressions.
1. Flawless Cleanser. It is called a jelly cleanser on the web site, to me it seems more like a thick gel – it doesn’t have the slight wobble or a certain milkiness that my favourite jelly cleansers have. It is a very solid cleanser, however: it takes the makeup off, does not irritate, has no smell, leaves no trace. I prefer it as a second cleanse or the only cleanse if I have not used makeup and SPF, because I don’t feel it’s great at removing eye makeup**. My only issue with it is that it’s a bit boring, which obviously is a plus if you have fussy skin. It costs a reasonable 16 pounds for 200ml, that’s on par with The Ordinary Squalene Cleanser. You can also buy three 50ml tubes for 24 pounds.
2. Flawless Daily Sunscreen. Dr Sam deserves major kudos for always stressing the need for sunscreen. And unlike many who preach this, she came out with her own version very early on. This one offers serious protection: SPF 50, broad spectrum, both chemical and physical filters. It also has niacinamide for some additional benefits. I find it very reliable (although I cannot fit three pumps of product on my face, as the website says I should) and the texture is nice. I’ll be honest, however, and say I prefer the lighter formulations of Asian sunscreens, the European ones are always a bit heavy for my taste. The other issue I have is that this one seems a tad too expensive for what it is and how the brand is positioned: 29 pounds for 50ml.
3. Flawless Nightly Serum. Somewhat surprisingly, my favourite product from the line turned out to be the most complex one. I thought this serum would not measure up to my fancier actives, but it has effortlessly slotted into my regime and stayed there. It has retinol (granactive retinoid, to be exact), azelaic acid, bakuchiol (everyone’s favourite ingredient at the moment) and a serious dose of niacinamide. You can tell that this has been thoughtfully formulated and feels lovely to use. I think it’s a great starting point for those who have never used retinols. If you an old hand like me, this is ideal for days when you are taking a break from your stronger products. In summer, I find it’s often enough on its own, without moisturiser on top. The price – 39 pounds for 50ml – is in my view also justified for an active, well–formulated serum.
Overall, these are good quality products in sensible but tasteful packaging (sturdy pumps! simple design!) that should not cause your skin any issues. I would pay them particular attention if you are sensitive or prone to congestion. Whether the line will seem tempting to you depends largely on what you want from your skincare and whether you consider a short, dependable, no-frills routine a good thing or something that’ll drive you mad with boredom after two weeks.
*For the record, I love double cleansing, but you can of course get your skin clean with one product, if you use enough and are thorough. For me, using two different products just seems more enjoyable and ultimately more effective.
**To be fair, the website says to use a dedicated makeup remover for the eyes, which in my view means that you are technically still doing a double cleanse and I would rather have a full balm+jelly situation in that case.
I was so curious to see what “three pumps for the face” would look like that this was one of the main motivations to buy the sunscreen (and while I was at it I also bought the moisturizer). Three pumps is a lot. I managed it for three mornings, but my face was so sticky and I looked ridiculous, my colleagues and patients are too polite to comment, my children are not. I did like the sunscreen, skipped both hydrating serum and moisturizer and used two pumps, 20 minutes apart, until I finished the product. I might repurchase, but not at the moment. So many other new sunscreens to try. I’m on to Oh My Cream’s mineral SPF 30. Have you tried it yet?
Lovely post, once again. Thank you.
Hi, Gudrun – sorry to be so slow again, my French course occupied whatever mental energy I had for three weeks… I have not tried the Oh My Cream sunscreen, but have bought an unreasonable amount of SPFs from other brands and will try to do a quick round-up once I’ve tried them all. I find it the most difficult part of my routine to get right.