When people ask me what they should see in Estonia other than Tallinn, I always recommend visiting the islands. We have – according to the latest data – 2222 of them, although less than 20 are inhabited. I have visited a handful: obviously the major ones, Saaremaa and Hiiumaa, but also Muhu, Vormsi, Aegna, Kihnu and Ruhnu. They are all lovely places, but I probably like the smaller West coast islands the best.

I had not been to Ruhnu until last week, mostly because it’s pretty far away (closer to Latvia than Estonia) and not that easy to get to. I was fortunate to have Latvian friends/colleagues to take me: we sailed from Riga overnight, spent a day on the island and sailed back. A night on the Baltic Sea is an experience – not especially glamorous, but it has its roughly romantic charm. If you can tolerate the sea and have the opportunity, do try it.

Ruhnu is a small, tranquil island: 11 square kilometers and less than 100 permanent inhabitants. It has non-scary forests and modest sandy beaches; a wooden 17th century church and a newer stone one; some charming houses; the absolute necessities like a school and a library and a shop; blueberries, sheep and a lighthouse that is said to be designed by Eiffel – it certainly was bought and shipped from France. You can cover all the ‘landmarks’ in a couple of hours, but sightseeing is not the point.

There is nothing magnificent about Ruhnu – or any other Estonian island, for that matter. But it’s ridiculously peaceful and relaxing and quietly beautiful, if you’re lucky with the weather. You can never be sure of that, of course. In July, it might be 32 degrees, but it might also be 16. There might be a storm. Or hail. If you are willing to take the risk, however, you’ll be rewarded with the opportunity to switch off so entirely that you begin to wonder if there is in fact a world beyond Ruhnu at all.

Last photo by Maija C.