The Discreet Charm of Hydra

The Discreet Charm of Hydra


I have not been telling you about my travels, although I always plan to, most determinedly. I never wrote that post about Beirut, which is a pity, as I loved it and it deserves to be much better known. And now I’m afraid the right moment to write about Venice has passed, too – I find I’m best at capturing places and books when I am still under their spell.

Let me therefore quickly tell you about Hydra, before I’ll no longer be able to. It is a small Greek island (one of the Saronic islands, to be precise), less then two hours from Athens by ferry. If you happen to be in Athens, it therefore makes for a doable day-trip and an even better two-day visit. Or you could stay much longer, if you can. I gladly would.

I’m not writing this as a guide: we were there for two days, mostly spent eating and reading and swimming (only the first two in my case). I’m writing this to tell you that Hydra is nice. I tried to come up with a more interesting description, but this is what it is – it’s just such a lovely place. There are islands with more amazing beaches and Greek towns with more splendid history; there are places with more magnificent views and fancier restaurants. But are they as nice as Hydra? I doubt.

Part of the island’s charm is that there are no cars, it’s quiet and relaxed. There are tourists, but at least in the beginning of June, they come in manageable amounts and pleasant varieties. You can eat well – we had dinner in Techne and loved it so much we went back for lunch the next day. You can go on walks along the coastline or worship Leonard Cohen. There are cats everywhere. The sky is big and the sea is blue and it feels like a real place.

They say Hydra these days is the favourite of the wealthy. Maybe that’s true, but it’s not how it felt to me. We lived in an Airbnb and I think it’s a place where it would be weird to stay in a luxury hotel – I’m not even sure they have any. The only things I bought were a toothbrush from the ‘Super Market’, which bore a remarkable resemblance to a Brussels corner shop, and a t-shirt for a friend, from the most non-aggressive souvenir shop I’ve ever visited.

I feel a preemptive sadness already, in case I never go back.

3 Comments

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  1. 1
    Mil

    You know, I think there is a lot to be said for somewhere that is plain and simple nice. It looks lovely. I also know what you mean about not really feeling inclined to write much about a place whilst you’re there and in the midst of enjoying it. If you ever do write about Beirut, I would love to hear about it though. It’s somewhere I’ve always fancied visiting.

  2. 2
    Mil

    You know, I think there is a lot to be said for somewhere that is plain and simple nice. It looks lovely. I also know what you mean about not really feeling inclined to write much about a place whilst you’re there and in the midst of enjoying it. If you ever do write about Beirut, I would love to hear about it though. It’s somewhere I’ve always fancied visiting. X

    • 3
      Ykkinna

      Absolutely, I feel that ‘nice’ is underrated these days and often it’s easiest to replenish your reserves in a relaxed atmosphere. I have been purposefully trying to enjoy my holidays and not share them extensively on social media, at least not in real time. Nothing against those who do, I just have very little time off and I don’t want to feel like I’m on duty when I do.

      Regarding Beirut, I might still do a write-up if/when I have more time during this summer. I feel like I owe it to the city and Lebanon in general.

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