Today is the first day of spring and this seemed a good time for a post on Jo Malone, the brand that reinvented cologne for modern consumers. Perfumistas can be a bit dismissive of Malone, as the fragrances aren’t very complex or statement-making. I complain too, but it’s silly of me.

Jo Malone is successful because it does a number of things really, really well: their scents strike a balance between intriguing and accessible – interesting enough for people with a perfume habit, wearable enough not to scare off mainstream consumers; the packaging is impeccable and their products make excellent gifts; they do small (30 ml) bottles and excel at limited editions. One can say that Malones are overpriced for what they are, but that is a moot point, until someone else is able to provide a similar combination at a lower price. The truth is that I own quite a few Jo Malone scents and wear them often.*

1. Blackberry & Bay. My first Jo Malone and still my favourite, also the first that I have completely used up and need to buy a replacement for. Fruity scents are difficult to get right, but this mix of tart berries and woody-green bay is excellently judged. It has an outdoorsy feel and is often liked by people who don’t usually care much for JM offerings. The candle is also great and one my absolute favourites for late summer. A longer review is here.

2. Mimosa & Cardamom. I must admit that I find it difficult to understand people who don’t like this scent. Not because it’s a great masterpiece of perfumery, but because it’s so happy and sunny and just… so good-smelling. It’s cheerful without being infantile, creamy and very gently spicy. Again, the candle is wonderful – many Jo Malone perfumes work very well as room fragrances, as they aren’t too overwhelming or pretentious. Full review here.

3. Wood Sage & Sea Salt. I was very much looking forward to the launch of this scent a couple of seasons ago, secretly hoping that there will be lot’s of sea salt and beachy herbs. There aren’t, really. It’s mostly pale, bleached wood with a touch of the sea. But even as it is, there isn’t anything else like that on the market and I wear it a lot in the summer and early autumn. Some more thoughts here.

4. Birch & Black Pepper. I know, I shouldn’t really bring the limited edition scents into it, as they are mostly no longer available. But Rock the Ages was probably my favourite collection ever from Jo Malone and B&BB my favourite of the five scents. I mostly wanted to include this as it’s an untypical Malone, featuring birch tar and having a tougher feel than most other perfumes in the line. Unfortunately, I no longer have the bottle, as it fell to its death from the kitchen cupboard shelf, where I had stored it for reasons that shall remain a mystery. If you want to try something different in the permanent collection, try Pomegranate Noir – I find that one pretty intense and quite interesting too.

5. Wild Strawberry & Parsley. Another limited edition, but if you are lucky, this might still be available in stores. The latest Herb Garden collection is a perfect example of JM on top form: a vaguely England-inspired theme, unusual ingredients (sorrel, nasturtium, carrot blossom, etc) executed in an accessible way, gorgeous green bottles, a lovely marketing campaign with a 60+ model. Wild Strawberry & Parsley was my favourite of the five and is probably the most mainstream: it could be Blackberry & Bay’s younger, sweeter cousin. Not that they smell alike, but the idea of combining a fruity smell with something green and slightly unusual is the same. Don’t be afraid of the parsley – it’s there, but it’s nice.

I seem to have a preference for Jo Malone colognes over their Cologne Intense (in dark bottles) series – probably because if I want something more substantial, there are other brands who do it better. My favourites also seem to be mostly from recent years, reflecting my increased interest in perfume since 2009 or so. But all are worth a try. If you have 30 minutes to kill in an airport with a Jo Malone counter, I suggest you go and explore.

*’All the time’ in my case means something like ‘several times a year’, as I own more than 40 bottles and a sea of samples and decants.