Scents of the Day: Part 3

Scents of the Day: Part 3


Last year, I did a project called Scent of the Day. For a month, every day, I talked about a scent on Facebook. I have been asked by friends to make these musings available on the blog, as it’s impossible to find anything on Facebook. So I’ll copy my mini-reviews here, but it needs to be done in batches – otherwise it’d be an insanely long post. You can find the first instalment here and the second here.

Just like volumes one and two, three is also an eclectic bunch of things. There is a sophisticated entry by Prada and a bit less sophisticated one from Lush. I’ll talk about my Frederic Malle coffret and an easy fruity cologne by Jo Malone. My notes on availability are a bit – but not entirely – specific to Estonia, but I’ve kept them, just in case. I have to apologise for the pictures again, as they were random snaps for Facebook, but I’ve kept these, too, for reference and some amusement value. (The cover photo is new.)

6 APRIL
Scent of the Day: Blackberry & Bay Cologne (Jo Malone)

Jo Malone

I have, indeed, been outside. And if one does something crazy like that, one should of course be armed with the perfect outdoorsy scent. Some people would tell you that you shouldn’t wear fragrances in nature. With all due respect, this is bullshit. Of course, you don’t have to wear anything, anywhere, ever, but if you feel like picking mushrooms while wearing Shalimar, you should by all means do it. The worst that can happen is that some bees will want to make love to you.

Blackberry & Bay is a scent that in fact inspires me to go outside and I guess it deserves some sort award for that alone. It smells of sweet-tart blackberries mixed with the scent of the leaves and branches and underbrush. It’s deliciously fruity (a word usually dreaded by perfumistas) with some citrus sparkling in the topnotes, but the woods and herbs underneath keep it firmly away from teen fruity floral territory. Simple but not simplistic, it’s intelligent fun and always makes me think of Jane Austen. I get these visions of long vigorous walks in English countryside, possibly in the rain, most definitely with a fireplace and a good book afterwards.

Jo Malone is a brand that nicely reconciles the traditional and modern aspects of perfumery. Clearly based on the concept of good old Britishness, the products are contemporary and very pretty. Their light, moderately interesting blends are good for people who are tired of mainstream offerings, but don’t want anything too avant-garde. I personally enjoy (in addition to B&B) their candles the most, the scents tend to be a bit too tame for me. Still, damn pretty.

A Note on Availability: there are no good options if you’re stuck in Estonia – at least I haven’t found a way of ordering from Jo Malone sites directly. There are, however, many Jo Malone boutiques in Europe and a new one has just opened in Brussels airport.

PS In the absence of blackberry bushes full of ripe fruit, I had to make do with some rather sad-looking snowdrops. That’s nature for you, not a single blackberry bush in sight when you need one. (Edit: I found some blackberries for the cover picture this time around)

7 APRIL
Scents of the Day: Flying Fox, Grass, It’s Raining Men and Prince Charming shower gels (Lush)

Lush

I guess it’s trendy these days not to like Lush and complain about the smell in their stores. Well, whatever. If you want a shower gel that gives you a serious scent boost and will linger on your skin for hours, Lush is the place to go. True, most of what they sell is not for the faint-hearted, but people should simply consider having less faint hearts.

My favourites among the line-up are Flying Fox and Grass. FF is the headiest jasmine I have encountered in any perfume format with a spoonful of honey mixed in. Under the shower, it will form a wonderful, luscious, sexy cloud that’ll perfume your entire bathroom. It stays on the skin for quite some time and if you don’t want to use it as a perfume substitute, you need to be somewhat mindful when choosing your fragrance – strong jasmine doesn’t necessarily play well with everything. (You can, of course, wear Lush Lust that smells very similar to Flying Fox, but Lust – as the name implies – is simply nuclear. Even I tread carefully around that one.)

Grass smells pretty much like mown grass and it’s one of my favourite summer shower gels. Green and unusual, it’s not quite as potent as Flying Fox, but you’ll get a lot of scent out of that small bottle nevertheless. And it will stay on skin, too.

I happily admit that I bought It’s Raining Men and Prince Charming solely for the names. The first one has a pretty straight-up honey scent with some relatively subdued tropical flowers, the second is a sweet and fruity pomegranate-vanilla mix. Both are a bit too sugary for me, but it’s always nice to have conversations like this: “Your bathroom is smells so nice.” ” Yes, It’s Raining Men in there.” Or, alternatively: “What are you doing?” “Oh, I just had a shower with Prince Charming.” I very much hope they’ll name their next shower gel after Tom Hiddleston…

A Note on Availability: if you can handle the smell in the stores (and don’t come crying to me if you can’t), these can be bought in every Lush store, including the one in Tallinn.

8 APRIL
Scent of the Day: En Passant (Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums)

Frederic Malle

Frederic Malle’s perfume line is among the ones I admire rather than love. All his fragrances are of very high quality and very well made; the line is perfectly edited and not too large, a rarity these days. I approve of his approach, too: Malle is not a nose himself, but was the first to put the names of the perfumers on the bottles. Everyone from Le Labo to Byredo also owes him for that understated, functional packaging he pioneered.

Despite the lack of unconditional love on my part, Malle is responsible for one of my favourite material possessions: a collection of 5 ml bottles of all his fragrances. This is not just a beautiful object, but a perfect way to try fragrances – 5 ml is enough to figure out if you need a whole bottle. And with Malle’s prices you better be sure you need it…

I’m currently happy with my tiny bottles, but I do think I will eventually own Carnal Flower, one of the most beautiful tuberoses in existence, and Portrait of a Lady, the darkest and driest rose I know that can smell beautiful on a right man. Une Fleur de Cassie is among the most unique scents I have ever tried: although based on cassie/mimosa flower, it doesn’t smell floral at all. I wear it when I need to appear twice as intelligent and cool as I actually am. (These three bottles are missing from the picture, simply because they are in my handbags somewhere.)

Today I’m wearing the lightest one of the bunch, En Passant. Created by Olivia Giacobetti, it’s beautiful and easy to like. I used to smell only lilacs in this, but now I get some green notes, too, and what the description says are cucumber and wheat. Surprisingly, it’s sweeter than I remember (I usually wear it when lilacs are in bloom, so it’s been almost a year), but as it’s masterfully composed, I don’t mind.

A Note on Availability: it’s either online or big cities, I’m afraid. Malle’s boutiques and even his boxes at department stores are worth visiting for both olfactory and visual pleasure. While I haven’t had any bad experiences myself, I’ve heard that the sales staff can be snooty, so keep your killer stare on stand-by. (Edit: I have just bought the En Passant travel set)

9 APRIL
Scent of the Day: Infusion d’Iris EdT and EdP (Prada)

Prada

Can you tell it’s going to be one of those super-innovative airport posts? I am, indeed, reporting directly from Helsinki airport with Prada Infusion d’Iris Eau de Toilette sprayed on my left hand and Eau de Parfum on my right hand. I’ve also got blotters with both scents, because SCIENCE.

Infusion d’Iris is one of my favourite mainstream scents to recommend, especially to anyone who’s looking for something modern and understated. It’s probably the classiest thing you can buy for 50 euros – iris in perfume usually communicates two things: 1) this is not for teens (unless you are a very sophisticated teenager) and 2) if you’re currently sporting a fake tan, please move forward to the Escada counter. Also, it says “Prada” on the bottle, which cannot be a bad thing.

Oh, how does it smell? In both versions, it’s a sheer, easy-to-wear iris. EdT is almost entirely about powdery-soapy-fresh iris to me, with a touch of citrus and some gentle woods in the background. EdP is a bit more intense and slightly sweeter, although not sweet. It’s less iris-y (pretty sure this is not a word) and has a strong neroli note. Both are very work-appropriate. If I had to choose, I’d go with EdT, as it’s more unique and more elegant.

In case you find EdT too light but like the iris, try the Absolue version (with a golden label, didn’t spot it here), it’s very nice. If even EdT is not light enough, there is also Infusion d’Iris l’Eau (pale pink label) with added mint and some delicate flower petals.

A Note on Availability: Prada’s fragrances are fortunately widely available and at least EdT is very easy to find. Not all places that stock Prada stock the EdP, but I know for a fact that you can find it in Helsinki.

15 Comments

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  1. 1
    bardot

    “With all due respect, this is bullshit!”. Oh how I love that sentence! I agree wholeheartedly and would very often wear SSS Forest Walk during trips to the mountains. The only problem I ever encountered was the bees who liked the way I smelled!
    I happen to like most of the offerings of the Jo Malone line, including Blackberry & Bay. I know there are complaints of longevity but I find that when I spray lavishly on my body and it accidentally gets on a scarf, jacket, clothes the fragrance remains for a significant number of days. Also, a base of jojoba oil on my wrists helps to adhere the fragrance.
    The Lush products sounds phenomenal….next time I venture to a more distant mall I will have to seek them out.
    The Prada I wore without knowing what it was…I purchased the first of Chandler Burr’s Scent Series and Infusion d’Iris was the fragrance. It was a wonderful way of exploring a fragrance without preconceived notions or prejudices. And I liked the fragrance very much!
    Have a wonderful weekend!

    • 2
      Ykkinna

      I love Forest Walk as well, it is probably my favourite SSS. I used to be a bit dismissive about Jo Malone, but the fact is that I own three of their fragrances (B&B, Wood Sage and Sea Salt and the new Birch & Black Pepper) and all three get a lot of wear. And there are a couple of others I wouldn’t mind having. Which ones are your favourites? Enjoy your weekend, too!

  2. 3
    Holly

    Following bardot’s lead, another quotable phrase: “people should simply consider having less faint hearts.” Maggie Smith immediately came to mind. You’re so right, and I certainly need to develop that, along with a killer stare.
    I blind bought (first time ever) Lush’s Rose Jam perfume after hearing such rabid praise for the gel and I returned it, along with Karma, Lust, Orange Blossom and Tuca Tuca. I would definitely need to go to a shop to try anything else!
    I like the Prada, EdT being the favorite of the bunch for me as well.
    Your Malle coffret is lovely, and honestly at this point in time 5 mls of anything would probably last quite a while for me.

    • 4
      Ykkinna

      I have a lot of respect for Lush fragrances, but I tend to like the concepts better than the perfumes themselves. There are a couple that I enjoy, but generally there is something in their style, something unfinished or too straightforward that bothers me. But when it comes to shower gels, I don’t mind, I want that powerful hit of scent and Lush certainly delievrs. Some of them are too sweet for me, but I appreciate that they have interesting options.

  3. 5
    bardot

    Holly if you like the Lush Rose Jam I would highly recommend the Dame Perfumery Cassis, Rose and Sandalwood….I have read several reviewers claiming it smells like the Lush perfume. If you go on the Dame Perfumery website there is a postcard program which entitles you to a free sample. I now have travel sizes in all but two of his scents as well as two full bottles…they are very lovely fragrances at budget friendly prices…I highly recommend!

    • 6
      Holly

      Thank you, bardot! I was lucky enough to jump on the Parfums Retro bandwagon in December 2013 after a post by Kafkaesque about Grand Cuir. Jeffrey did an incredibly generous giveaway, and included other samples as well. He’s such a sweetheart, and represents the perfume community so well that I am a supporter, too. I have samples of everything, but currently they are floating in The Sample Sea. Perhaps when the weather warms up I’ll be ready to surf again. 🙂

  4. 7
    bardot

    Regarding the Jo Malone the question would be which ones don’t I like! In our house we have had/have fbs and travel size sprays of Nectarine Blossom &honey, Grapefruit, Orange Blossom, Peony Blush & Suede, Cucumber & Earl Grey, Pomegranate Noir, French Lime Blossom. Red Roses, Black berry & bay….I happen to like the Wood sage on my husband and my daughter really wants a fb of the Velvet Rose & OUd (perhaps for her birthday…the one and only present as it is a bit pricey!)

    • 8
      Ykkinna

      Is the Cucumber and Earl Grey one still available? It sounds like something I would like. I don’t know the line as well as you, but the lime blossom one is nice and I find Pomegranate Noir very interesting.

  5. 9
    bardot

    and I almost forgot…my son has Basli, Mandarin & LIme…it’s an odd one but I really like it (one perfume blogger once said it smelled like gasoline on her….I could see that but I still like it!

  6. 11
    bardot

    The Cucumber Earl Grey was part of the limited edition tea collection but then it became part of the regular line up…..so, yes, it is still available. Last night I tried my sample of Amber and Lavender….that is a nice one for the evening/night….I find the line very versatile, subdued and work friendly …..as much as I like trendy, unusual scents I veer more towards classic and innocuous as my work environment demands it…..in other words, I cannot be a sillage bomb at work! The Jo Malones are perfect for that and when sprayed on clothes, in my hair or on “oiled” skin they do have decent and/or above average longevity (depending upon the scent).

    • 12
      Ykkinna

      Thank you for letting me know! I must seek it out. I like statement scents, but I cannot (and don’t want to) wear Fracas every day. I’ve grown to like JM more and more, exactly for the reasons you describe.

  7. 13
    bardot

    oh…and the wood sage blends delightfully with the lime blossom….that is another thing I love about this line…mixing and matching and creating my own scent!

  8. 14
    Johanob

    The Malle Coffret is probably one of my best investments ever,also!!Lol!En Passant is definitely FB-worthy….and Musc Ravageur…Dans te Bras…lol.

    • 15
      Ykkinna

      It is quite fabulous, isn’t it? I’ll also need Un Fleur de Cassie at some point and probably Carnal Flower, too.

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