Autumn Edit: Fragrances

Autumn Edit: Fragrances


Suddenly, autumn is here – not just de jure, but also de facto. It was still 27 degrees on Wednesday, now it’s barely ten and raining hard. So it seems the right moment to start with my autumn edits, they no longer feel disconnected from reality. I’m in fact looking forward to wearing my autumn clothes, proper makeup and more substantial fragrances. I absolutely love summer and I hate the cold, but in terms of style and beauty, autumn is my favourite season.

So here’s a selection of perfumes that I’ve either already started to wear or very much plan to. As always, this is not an exhaustive list, I’m always trying to wear as many of my 50+ perfume collection as possible. Chances are I’m still liking everything that has been on my previous lists, but I’m trying to have something new on them every time, while still reflecting my favourites more-or-less faithfully.

1. Old Money by Teresa Helbig. This is my most recent scent obsession and it’s an unexpected one. Teresa Helbig is a Spanish fashion house that also has a small line of fragrances (four in total). I hadn’t even heard of them until I saw the lime displayed at Kroonen & Brown in Brussels. All four are nice, but Old Money is absolutely wonderful: it’s mostly fig and vetiver on me, a transparent and subtle perfume. Although they don’t smell similar, in terms of function, this is the autumn version of Chanel Paris-Deauville for me: classy and very effortless. If you have access to it, I highly recommend trying it on: it has been universally liked by my friends and colleagues so far (and yes, I sprayed all of them).

2. Hemingway by Masque Milano. The second new fragrance in my autumn line-up, this is a pretty straightforward vetiver. I don’t mean it’s a simple, unrefined composition – Masque Milano is a very sophisticated house -, I mean that vetiver is pretty much all I smell. This is clearly intentional, as there are only a few other notes mentioned by the brand (ginger, rhubarb, cedar) alongside three different vetivers. As it’s such a complex material, this is not an issue. I’m not sure Hemingway will rival Chanel’s Sycomore in my affections, but I’ll wear it with pleasure.

3. London by Tom Ford. There is a type of perfume that combines leather, wood, smoke and spices into a very potent concoction (Anubis and Nanban come to mind). London is possibly my favourite perfume in this genre and every autumn, I’m looking forward to wearing it. Not that I wouldn’t wear it in summer, I would and I have, but the risk of upsetting other people in the vicinity is much smaller when the temperatures drop. Technically, both this one and Hemingway are my gifts to J, but I will steal them on a regular basis.

4. Sarrasins by Serge Lutens. If I take a very long view, I seem to be wearing less florals and more woods and leather, citrus and fruit. I don’t think I’ll ever give up my white florals entirely, though, and Sarrasins continues its rein as my current favourite. I have written a review on it, so don’t have much to add, only that the little darkness in the composition makes it a good autumn floral.

5. Boxeuses by Serge Lutens. I maintain that Lutens leathers are underrated and there is no leather perfume more autumnal than Boxeuses. With its plum and maple syrup notes, it’s the perfect thing to wear in October. I am also very much looking forward to a leather perfume from MEMO Paris that is not yet launched but I’ve managed to smell and it seemed specifically created for me (leather, iris and vetiver!).

6. Iris Nazarena by Aedes de Venustas. If in the general scheme of things I’m moving from florals to either more masculine or cologne-type scents, I seem to be moving the opposite direction with iris perfumes: I wear my austere irises less and have been drawn to my more approachable versions, Iris Nazarena in particular. I find it very easy to wear, light and almost fruity, but that’s not a universally accepted opinion. Some people get much more of the incense or the vegetal quality of the iris. In any case, it is worth checking out. You should also keep your eye out for La Parfumerie Moderne’s Belles Rives, an absolutely beautiful iris with osmanthus and myrrh that I might buy in the near future. It is such a lovely creation.

7. Twilight by Lush. Autumn always requires a comfort scent and while I still adore Lumiere Blanche and Mimosa & Cardamom, I’m currently really enjoying Twilight. It is a sweet lavender that combines the latter with tonka (like vanilla, but more interesting) and ylang ylang. I loved the shower gel years ago – it was the product that made me realise I don’t actually hate lavender – and now they’ve come out with a body spray. Also, if you love the Rose Jam shower gel, go and check out that body spray as well. If you like your comfort sent more understated and close to skin, the new Peau Santal by Miller Harris is lovely.

8. Bandit by Robert Piguet. The opposite of comfort, Bandit is a scent to wear when you feel badass or want to encourage the feeling of badassery. It is not for everyone and in fact I did not wear it for months, possibly more, until I rediscovered my bottle this summer. It is a completely unique green leather and something everyone interested in perfume should try – even if you turn out to hate it. You can read my review here (you need to scroll down).

What have you been wearing? Is there a scent you are curious about?

14 Comments

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  1. 1
    Ave

    The looming autumn made me repurchase Noir by Tom Ford – I was on the verge of buying men’s version once again, but opted for the feminine at the end for its subtle sweetness is comforting. I ended up using it all in the summer, but a perfume I had intended to buy for the “looming autumn” was Botafumeiro by Carner Barcelona. Think Santiago de Compostela and ancient catholic cathedrals. I have been obsessed with incense-infused (ish) scents lately, eager to discover more, but this is biblically good, haven’t powered through a bottle like this in a while. I also adore and admire Serge Lutens. I dug out the last of my Fourreau Noir (lavender, tonka, musc..), and I also seem to be hooked on L’Orpheline (cedar wood, coumarin, patchouli, incense etc). Also, a fairly surprising find for me was Karma by Lush, so very grounding and comforting and the way it beautifully transforms on the skin throughout the day is just pure hippie magic. I.e. I am super exited about autumn scents.

    • 2
      Ykkinna

      Beautiful choices! I haven’t tried Botafumeiro, but I have their El Born. And one day, I’m going to buy Lutens’s Myrrhe. I’m not the biggest incense expert, but if you ever come accross Neela Vermeire Trayee, I highly recommend trying it. And Comme de Garçons incense series is of course a good place to figure out one’s preferences, if you haven’t smelled them yet.

      Autumn is the best scent season, in my oppinion.

  2. 5
    Austenfan

    I always love to see Sarrasins mentioned. It’s by far my favourite and most worn Lutens. The others I’m not as familiar with. I love autumn in theory, less so in practice. Those shortening days are not my favourite time of year. Still the colours are beautiful.

    Just a tip: should you wish to stock up on some Malles, there is a Dutch e-tailer (very reliable) who is doing a 50% sale on a lot of the Malle travel sets. Not affiliated, but just so you know. Google skins and you will find them. You do have to create an account to access the archives, which is their sale.

    • 6
      Ykkinna

      I’m loving Sarrasins more and more, it is just so beautiful and while it is dramatic, it’s somehow also very easy to wear (for me at least). I wonder if you’d like Twilight: it’s sweeter than your other lavenders I assume, but I find it really nice.

      And thank you very much for the Skins tip – I am very tempted by the Une Fleur de Cassie set. They have some other very nice stuff on sale as well; do you know if one needs to react super fast or the products will be there in a week or two as well?

      • 7
        Austenfan

        They have been there for a while, at least 2 months or so. So I should imagine that they would be. Also I very much fear that Cassie will be discontinued at some point. While still very much present on the Malle website, it apparently doesn’t sell and a lot of shops carrying Malle don’t have it.

        Agree with you on Sarrasins, it has all the Lutens drama and yet wears so very easily, which a fair number of their offerings don’t. Looking at you La Myrrhe! Plus it looks like I really need to try Twilight, as I generally I love a bit of sweet in my perfumes!

        • 8
          Ykkinna

          In that case I think I’ll take the risk and wait until payday… Sorry to hear about Cassie. I think Malle hasn’t really discontinued anything so far? For me personally, this would be the wrong place to start.

          Regarding Twilight, I think it really just smells good. The scent is not super sophisticated and is therefore maybe better suited for body products, but I enjoy it.

          • 9
            Austenfan

            As far as I’m aware he hasn’t, but sales assistants keep telling me that both Cassie and Thérèse have been. I think they may just be misinformed, still they’ll hardly be their bestsellers.
            I love things that just smell good, and while I don’t care much for the actual Lush shops or the drying effect of their shower gels, I love most of their scents. They are quite original and good. I love their Sleepy bodylotion, a deliciously gourmand lavender (with lots of tonca!).

  3. 11
    Marina

    What an amazing autumn perfume wardrobe! The only one I haven’t heard of is Old Money. I never think of Sarassins as a white floral, although it is, but it’s a darker one, well, as dark as jasmine can get! Unfortunately I don’t find bell jars practical but every year Serge Lutens releases a travel spray version of a bell jar scent, one can only hope. Although I want Louve, Boxeuses and El Attarine most of all! My comfort scent… I plan to get Serge Lutens Jeux de Peau and L’Artisan Parfumeur Bois Farine. I am in love with Frederic Malle Dries Van Noten and consider it for winter. I’m going to visit two boutiques in the beginning of October to sample Amouage and Carner Barcelona. Now I’m mostly into woody scents, like Jardins d’Ecrivains Orlando (woods and cloves) and Memo Quartier Latin (sandalwood, cedar, tonka). I am enjoying a very seductive leather, L’Artisan Parfumeur Skin on Skin (saffron, whiskey, suede!) and the wonderful Mr. Vetiver. The only negative thing is that my bottles of Feminite du Bois and L’air de Rien are empty, although in the case of FdB, I have the old Shiseido version that was kindly gifted to me last year. When it gets colder, I’ll plan to wear more leathers and tobacco. Serge Lutens Chergui and Jardins d’Ecrivains George (a perfume inspired by George Sand smoking her Galloise). I also fell in love with Penhaligons Portraits Roaring Radcliff which is a blend of ginger biscuit and tobacco. And the delicious coffee gourmand that is Kilian Black Phantom. As for home scents, I just started burning my Kilian Cuban Nights candle, it smells of sweet leather and cigars.

    • 12
      Ykkinna

      Your list is wonderful! I don’t even know where to start. First of all, I HATE bell jars. They are beautiful, but just a pain to use. I think they should all come with a small travel spray, so that you can keep the bottle, but use the spray on a daily basis. And I’m still so happy that you love Mr Vetiver, it is such a great scent. And I’m beyond anvious of your Shiseido FdB, it must be fantastic. I’m 99% sure you’d enjoy Old Money, we’ll need to see what can be done about it.

  4. 13
    Eliza

    I have rearranged my travel plans to Dublin later this month in response to this post and the comments, so that I can try Botafumeiro at Parfumarija 🙂 I had a very sweet summer – it isn’t even a favourite, but for some reason I kept wanting to wear Shalimar in the heat. I also lashed on the Serge Un Bois Vanille as well, my goodness. I want drier things now, so I’ve abandoned my usual autumn Chanels (apart from Cristalle) in favour of, mainly: Hermes Bel Ami Vetiver; Bulgari eau parfume’e au the’ rouge, and Atelier Cologne Cafe’ Tuberosa. A couple of chypres: Paloma Picasso (pretty cheap and pretty widely available here), and Floral Street Chypre Sublime (possibly quite sweet, in fact, but very powdery so it seems dry. It’s a newish British perfume house that does 10ml bottles for about €25). Finally, for florals, The Different Company Bois d’Iris (dry and a little sweet) and Aedes de Venustas Oeillet Bengale (dry and spicy). I also want to sample more from TDC, and chypres and incenses from Heeley, when in Parfumarija, as well as trying your Aedes iris. I’ve never liked anything from Lush, but Twilight was well worth trying, thanks!

    • 14
      Ykkinna

      This is another very impressive list. I love that you wore Shalimar in the heat, this is exactly the kind of thing that I find exciting. Cafe Tuberosa is on my ‘might buy’ list and Bois d’Iris is an old favourite. If you try TDC scents, please try Tokyo Bloom! It’s the wrong season for this, but I love that unique cologne. And Iris Nazarena too, of course 🙂

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