5 Perfumes for Late Summer

5 Perfumes for Late Summer


I like the lazy days of late summer. I wrote about my August last year, when I was on holiday in Estonia. This August has been less faded, the sun bolder and the weather warmer, at least occasionally. I have been in Brussels this time, so it’s been about sitting in our wild garden eating plums; walking to the market in the heat or sudden rain; reading alone in cafes and eating apricot tart. These are the fragrances that have matched my mood:

1. Diptyque Philosykos. This is obviously a classic and should be a no-brainer, but I never really appreciated the full amazingness of this scent until I bought a bottle in July. It is probably the greatest fig scent in the world and as such, especially suited for the end of summer-early autumn when figs are in season. Although I love figs in every form, all this luscious fruity creaminess can get a bit boring on its own. The greatness from Philosykos comes from the fact that it’s so well blended with woody and dark green notes, lending it just the right amount of complexity. This has been my most worn scent in August, especially on weekends.

2. Jo Malone Blackberry & Bay. If Philosykos has been my favourite this year, Blackberry & Bay is a scent I’ve been wearing around this time for something like five years. I have written about it at least twice, so I only want to add that although fruity (and berry) scents are often horribly sweet and directed at teenagers, there are exceptions, so do give them a try. I have discovered that I like fruits in perfume, but always mixed with something else, as long as it’s not vanilla – wood, leather, greenery or even florals.

3. Ormonde Jayne Vanille d’Iris. It is no secret that I love iris scents and have quite a few of them, but Vanille d’Iris is unique among the ones I own. While iris is clearly present, there is a vanilla and wood base that makes it ideal for slightly chillier and/or rainy summer days – it is not a dark or sweet fragrance, but there is depth and warmth. I also get a burst of fruits and citrus in the beginning (what? you’re noticing a theme?) that makes the scent pretty fun and approachable. I wonder if this could be a gateway for people who usually find iris challenging? Fruits and vanilla are certainly more universally liked than orris.

4. Hiram Green* Moon Bloom. Tuberose is a divisive note – people often either love this heady, creamy, voluptuous white flower or loathe it with a passion. I am in the former camp and often try to convince people to give tuberose a try. But if Vanille d’Iris could potentially be a starter iris, I doubt Moon Bloom would work as a tuberose for beginners. It is a pretty full-on, unapologetic tuberose, although I still find it smooth and refined and not overpowering. There is a somewhat medicinal or rubbery nuance to my nose that makes it interesting and keeps the tropical beauty and sweetness in check. I love wearing this in the evening when the day has been exceptionally warm – tuberose is a night-blooming flower and this perfume seems to have an affinity with the night as well.

5. Chanel Eau de Cologne. We’ve been lucky to have have some extraordinarily hot days in the end of August and consequently, I have found myself reaching for colognes. There are others I like in this genre, but Chanel EdC is the quintessential cologne for me. It is so well constructed and balanced that it just smells right. It is certainly expensive and there are great options to be found at much lower price points. Still, if you love well-made classics and your wallet doesn’t mind, this is among the greatest refreshing perfumes in the world.

*Hiram Green is a Dutch natural perfumer whose line is small and very high quality: if you have a chance, I highly recommend sampling his work.

All five

23 Comments

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  1. 1
    Violetnat

    I love Ormonde Jayne perfumes! But haven’t tried Vanille d’Iris yet. Is it new? I don’t remember it being in the original line up ?

    • 2
      Ykkinna

      It is relatively new, launched this year if I remember correctly. There is also an exclusive they have done for Selfridges – also worth a sniff if you happen to be there 🙂

  2. 3
    Hamamelis

    Lovely post! I will wear my sample of Vanille d’Iris tomorrow and will report back here or on NST. And…I have been so severly tempted by the Chanel Eau de Cologne…how is longevity on your skin? On some it seems to disappear in 5 minutes, I find that a bit too quick…And in terms of ‘cologneness’ is it 4711 territory (but then top notch) or Jo Malone Basile Lime? It has to be a blind buy, but you know, pricing may go up or they may get rid of the EdC alltogether…you know convincing myself…

    • 4
      Ykkinna

      Thank you! Curious to hear what you think of Vanille d’Iris. Some find it a bit disjointed and I can see how the elements might seem quite disparate, but it does come together on my skin.

      Regarding the Chanel: I definitely get a few hours out of it; sprayed a bit on my hand this morning to test, it has been three hours and I can still clearly smell it. I couldn’t find my bottle of 4711, but going by memory, I think it is a bit closer to that than to Lime, Basil and Mandarin. It has the citrus, but I don’t find it particularly aromatic. But as you say, compared to 4711 and most other colognes, it’s more elegant and polished: Victoria says it’s the musc that makes it smoother and rounder than your average cologne and I’m sure she’s right. (Do keep in mind, though, that LB&M is one of the few Jo Malones that just does not work for me at all.)

      If you’re interested, I can send you a sample?

      • 5
        Hamamelis

        Thank you so much for your EdC testing! I would be very very happy with a sample, are you up to it? And ofcourse I am always happy to return any request, at the moment I’m quite smitten by 2 Mona di Orio’s and Tauer’s Rose Chypree (no FB yet).
        I am wearing Vanille right now, and enjoy it very much, I ‘get’ the orris vanille pairing, it is a bit like orris in a paper bag (so far, sprayed it an hour ago). I smelled it on someone some time ago, I didn’t know what it was, and it smelled so utterly gorgeous.

  3. 8
    Tess

    Firstly, I recently discovered your blog and have pretty much devoured it entirely over the past week. I bought Feminité du Bois on your recommendation, thank you so much!

    I’m tossing up whether to get Blackberry and Bay, or L’Ombre Dans L’Eau – I love both, and they remind me of each other. I almost bought L’Ombre last week, but decided at the last minute against it as I was scared it was too headache inducing. We’ll see!

    • 9
      Ykkinna

      Are you enjoying Feminite du Bois? I absolutely love it, but some people find it difficult (for me it’s a comfort scent, so go figure…). And I can see how B&B and L’Ombre could fill the same niche. I like both a lot and while L’Ombre is probably the better scent, I wear B&B more, because it’s easier.

      And thank you for the nice words!

      • 10
        Tess

        Very much so! It’s beautiful, but I understand that it could seem unusual as a female scent to many. It’s still wintery and cold (relatively speaking) here in Australia so it’s been a good scent these past few days.

        I think I might spritz a little of both on each wrist and decide which I prefer that way, although I am leaning more towards L’Ombre… also because it has such a beautiful name!

        • 12
          Eliza

          Oh I think the two of you have just persuaded me to make Feminite du Bois my new perfume purchase for autumn, what fun! I’ve been dithering for ages between that and a few other Serge Lutens – well, mainly Iris Silver Mist, in a travel set from Liberty. But I must try the new Bapteme du Feu first. I read a description of it yesterday in a magazine which called it a rose perfume (promising, no? La Fille de Berlin is intoxicating) which is not at all what Angela on NST describes – for her it’s “a bridge between a classic cologne and a sheer gourmand” with “traditional manly undertones.” I know whose nose I trust in this debate! And now I’ll gladly give Philosykos a try too – I had a very sweet fig perfume from Roger et Gallet once, which put me off – but your description above is intriguing.

          • 13
            Ykkinna

            I adore ISM, but I wear Feminite du Bois much more often. Especially if you’re looking for an autumn scent, I think it’s close to perfect. I don’t even find ISM as stark as many other people, but I do need to be in the right mood for it and I feel most drawn to it in very early spring. Obviously, YMMV and don’t pay too much attention to my ramblings!

            I’m in fact going to try and smell the new Lutens today, let’s see. I’m not too excited, but always curious about whatever Mr Lutens does.

  4. 14
    SophieC

    A lovely selection (I have only tried Moon Bloom once but recall it being a beautiful ‘true’ tuberose). I am especially fond of Blackberry and Bay at the moment, and anticipate wearing Vanille D’iris as we progress more into September. Another perfume that fits this time of year to my mind is Seville a L’Aube, something about its languid warmth fits late summer and hazy early Autumn.

    • 15
      Ykkinna

      B&B is just so nice and especially this time of year. I should retry Seville L’Aube, as it sounds so good and I want to like it, but orange blossom is the only white flower that can be problematic for me. I had a sample of it, but even if I still have it, I don’t think the quality would be great. Have you had a chance to try Arquiste’s Boutonniere, by the way?

      • 16
        SophieC

        I am happy to send you a sample of Seville a L’Aube – I have a bottle I need to use more! And yes on the Boutonniere – sorry for not mentioning it – I found it in Fenwicks a few days ago and great recommendation – I love it and am very tempted by a bottle, especially as it seems likely to work as the weather gets cooler. Will keep you updated.

        • 17
          Ykkinna

          I would be very happy to send you some Boutonniere, but I just cannot find my bottle… I’m planning a bigger Autumn Clean later in September, hopefully it’ll emerge then.

  5. 18
    hannahmom

    I adore the Chanel EDC, but I get less than an hour on my skin. It is the perfect late summer scent – it drags you up from the torpid humid depths of August.

    • 19
      Ykkinna

      I know many people have that issue, but it lasts OK on me. Partly because I have learned to spray it with abandon. I used to have a serious longevity problem with La Pausa, but if you give it 8 sprays, it’ll last much better 🙂

  6. 20
    StellaDiverFlynn

    Moon Bloom is such a Beauty! I agree with you that it’s probably not a gateway tuberose for tuberose novices (for whom I’d usually recommend La Chasse aux Papillons), but I think it’s more friendly and less loud than Fracas, Carnal Flower, etc, while still retaining the creamy or even fatty aspects of the tuberose. Maybe a gateway tuberose for those who graduate from La Chasse aux Papillons and Do Son, and are ready to venture into the next stage? (≧∇≦)

    I’m curious about Vanille d’Iris and Ormonde Jayne in general, as I haven’t had chance to test any of their offerings. When thinking about vanilla and iris, I think they can combine wonderfully, at least from my experiences with Van Cleef’s Bois d’Iris and PG’s Felanilla.

    • 21
      Ykkinna

      It really is beautiful, isn’t it? And yes, it’s not as challenging as Fracas. Another ‘advanced beginner’ tuberose is – in my opinion – by Kilian’s Beyond Love. It’s so pretty and polished that it’s difficult to hate 🙂

      OJ was one of the first niche brands I knew well (I ordered the sample set years ago) and I think I like all of the older ones in the line, some of the newer ones I haven’t tested properly. The signature scent is worth sniffing even if you don’t like the style – I still think it’s the best true forest scent out there. And Tiare is extremely pretty and Champaca quite unique.

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