The world of fragrance has exploded in the last decade, and its impossible to test everything that is launched – because of the sheer volume, but also access and cost. I used to properly test (a full day on my arm, checking in regularly) many things, out of curiosity and also to educate my nose. I do it less now and I focus on brands I know I like or scents that sound appealing. I still sniff a lot, though, I’m simply harder to get these days, less willing to dedicate skin time to newcomers.

You know where I’m going with this: it’s not a comprehensive overview, it is limited by my taste and things I have access to, it’s not the ‘best of’ in any objective sense, blah-blah-blah. However, I know many of you enjoy these lists, so here we go again.

1. Teresa Helbig Old Money. The biggest surprise of the year and probably my overall favourite. It is as easy to wear as a cologne, but more complex and substantial: you can read my full review here. As it’s a small brand, it’s not that easy to find. If you do find it, give it a sniff.

2. Chanel Paris-Deauville. Another easy-to-wear fragrance, it’s basically a very sophisticated cologne. From the trio that Chanel launched, this is my favourite and while not cheap, it’s in line with Chanel/Dior/Guerlain overall pricing for their mass market stuff. It has more class than most mainstream offerings from these brands, though, and I would certainly recommend it over Gabrielle or Dior Joy.

3. Masque Milano Times Square. In case this is getting too boringly sophisticated for you, Times Square is anything but. Sweet and sweaty, it is not for everyone, but I wear it regularly and there’s nothing else like it.

4. Lush Twilight. On the more affordable end of the spectrum, Lush body sprays are fantastic and truly great value for money. You get 200ml for 20-35 euros, depending on the scent, and the staying power is generally very good. Twilight is a wonderful combination of lavender and tonka (smells like more interesting vanilla), I absolutely love it. I also own Dad’s Garden Lemon Tree, a nice citrus scent, and am very tempted by Plum Rain, as I adored the fruity scent of the shower gel. If you are a rose lover, Rose Jam is a must-try. I also want to give a shout-out to the Ectoplasm shower cream (a neon-green cream with a creamy, aromatic citrus smell), hoping it will return for Halloween 2019. It apparently comes as a fragrance, too, but it’s been sold out everywhere.

5. Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie. I’ve been an admirer of this fragrance since I bought the Frederic Malle discovery coffret and tried it in a dingy Paris hotel room. That was almost ten years ago and I have finally bought it: three travel size bottles, to be exact. UFdC is a floral perfume, but to me, it has never felt like one. It is an intellectual take on flowers, blooms at their most woody and leathery. Mimosa and cassie are the stars here (the scents are related and Bois de Jasmin has a helpful and knowledgeable explainer), but this mimosa is as far as you can get from the sunny, creamy mimosa in my other favourite, Mimosa & Cardamom. It is a smart and elegant perfume; it is also strange and strangely compelling.

6. La Parfumerie Moderne Belles Rives. I love iris in perfume, own many iris scents and have sniffed many more, so it takes a lot for me to be impressed. Belles Rives managed. It is an achingly beautiful iris fragrance, complex and exquisitely balanced. I don’t own it, but hope to buy it next year and do a full review.

7. Memo Moroccan Leather. Another scent I don’t own (yet), this is a fantastic green-floral leather, with prominent iris and vetiver notes. I’m not always a huge fan of Memo Paris, the scents can seem a bit harsh to my nose, but this one carries its sharpness well.

8. Chanel No 5 L’Eau. I’m including this one for two reasons: a) the bottle and b) the fact that apparently many people don’t realise this scent exists. The first isn’t really relevant any more, as the red bottle has been sold out everywhere, but the second is: if you like the idea of No 5 but cannot wear it, try the L’Eau. It’s lighter and more modern and simply a rather nice scent.

9. Diptyque Amande Exquise. There is a reason why Diptyque holiday candles are so popular: they are unmistakably holiday-ish, while still being refined and nuanced. I have tried many different brands and Diptyque nails that balance. I usually like their pine candles the best (and I am generally not a pine smell person at all), but this year fell for the least sophisticated of the three, a sweet almond-cherry-tonka scent.

Honourable mentions go to Jo Malone Jasmine Sambac & Marigold, Miller Harris Wander and Peau Santal (was Tender also this year?), Atelier Cologne Cafe Tuberosa, Hermessence Middle Eastern trio (Myrrhe Eglantine, Agar Ebene and Cedre Sambac) and H&M perfume collection.

What did you like to smell this year?