I feel a bit uneasy about hauls – I’m absolutely fine with others writing and talking about the stuff they’ve bought, but not so sure I want to go there myself. It can feel like an orgy of consumption with little added value and I don’t want to be reminded that I’m a shallow human being who feels a disturbing sense of satisfaction when sitting on a bed surrounded by piles of freshly bought skincare.

I am, however, not known for the coherence and consistency of my beliefs, so here’s my London skincare haul. I decided to do it for three reasons: 1) people seem to be genuinely interested and this gives them an opportunity to see what I got and ask questions about specific products; 2) the things I bought nicely illustrate my current obsession with things that are proven to work: retinol, vitamin C and SPF; 3) it WAS an orgy of consumption, but one based on a lot of research and so far, I’m pleased with my purchases.

Everything I bought is listed below and where possible, I’ve added my first impressions. Please keep in mind, as always, that my skin is not sensitive and can tolerate a remarkable amount of active ingredients. Also, as my skincare routine is pretty charged already, it takes a lot for me to see an immediate difference when using something new. If this here seems wayyy too complicated and fussy for you, I suggest you take a look at my skincare advice for non-obsessed people and recently launched mainstream products I like.

1. SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.3. SkinCeuticals is a very research and results oriented skincare brand from the USA and difficult to get in Europe. This is a shame, as I’ve only heard good things about it. The plan was to buy the much more potent Retinol 1.0, but apparently it can no longer be sold over the counter in the UK. So I ended up with 0.3, as recently featured by Caroline Hirons (I highly recommend you watch her retinol video). This is causing me no issues whatsoever and based on 3-4 days of use looks to be working well.

2. SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF. Another replacement purchase: I planned to get CE Ferulic, their cult vitamin C day serum, but it was sold out. The trustworthy-sounding SA recommended this instead, saying that it might give even better results. This has vitamin C, ferulic acid and phloretin. I don’t know much of the latter, but other two are great ingredients. It’s really too early to say anything about this, but my skin looks good.

3. SkinCeuticals Retexturising Activator. This is an exfoliating and hydrating serum and supposed to be the equivalent of a 20% glycolic acid peel. I bought it for those nights when I don’t want to use retinol. Have used once and it seemed to do a good job, no irritation.

4. SkinCeuticals Brightening UV Defense SPF 30. SkinCeuticals sunscreens are legendary and I can see why. This is great – no greasiness, no white cast, just nice to wear.

5. NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum 1%. NIOD is one of the most innovative skincare brands around (the parent company DECIEM has a host of interesting brands, including Hylamide) and CAIS is their hero product. It focuses on skin health rather than specific concerns and as every skincare nerd knows, you are not supposed to see instant results. So I cannot tell you whether it works, but I have been using it diligently morning and evening. As an introduction to NIOD, I recommend this post by Caroline Hirons – comments are the most interesting part, as Deciem’s founder shows up and responds to questions personally. NIOD’s web site has a wealth of information about every product as well.

6. NIOD Flavanone Mud. This is a clay mask that NIOD claims does much more than an ordinary clay mask. I don’t know about that, but it sure does purify the skin beautifully. I can also confirm that – as the web site says – you really can use a very thin layer of this, it spreads beautifully unlike any other clay mask I’ve seen. Another thing the brand is correct about is stinging: I almost never experience it, but I did with this mask. Detail Oriented Beauty has a great (and very enthusiastic) overview of all the more recent NIOD products.

7. NIOD Sanskrit Saponins. I usually don’t care much for products inspired by ‘ancient traditions’, but if they work, I don’t mind if they are inspired by Genghis Khan himself. Sanskrit Saponins is an ayurvedic cleanser that has a mousse-like texture and somewhat unusual smell. It doesn’t remove make-up, so makes sense only as a second cleanse in the evening or as a morning cleanse. I’ve used it a couple of times and I’m impressed: it is especially great if your skin feels congested and the pores clogged.

8. Biologique Recherché Lotion P50W. Another absolute cult product and another one that’s difficult to get (I bought mine at Liberty). It’s one of the strongest and most effective acid toners around. I kind of thought I’d get the original P50, but the SA somehow convinced me to get P50W that is supposed to be less irritating. I should have remained firm, but no matter, this has been great so far. And I get a tingle from this, so clearly there is quite a bit of oomph.

9. Biologique Recherche Masque Vivant. Not as well known as P50, this is a very respected product in the exclusive circles of the skin-obsessed. I’ve used it once and it is a very effective purifying-brightening mask. What you need to know, though, is that is smells absolutely vile (it’s the yeast). I’m not exaggerating, it’s awful. Win some, lose some.

10. NeoStrata Smooth Surface Daily Peel Pads. I found these – surprise! – thanks to Caroline Hirons. NeoStrata is a professional brand and as you would expect, the pads are pretty strong. I’ve used them twice and they’ve felt effective. I bought NeoStrata and the SkinCeuticals stuff at the Wigmore Medical Pharmacy – a highly recommended destination for people serious about their skincare.

11. ZO Skin Health Oclipse Sunscreen + Primer SPF 30. The final bit from Wigmore Pharmacy, I would never have known to buy this without @violetnat from Instagram who is a source of excellent beauty advice. The SA told me this is the best SPF in the building and I have used it most days since I bought it. It is very, very good. It has a slight tint and matte finish, but not what I call dead-matte. I have no makeup but this on my face today and I’m OK.

12. Liz Earle Cleanse & Polish Hot Cloth Cleanser. I don’t need another cleanser, but I’ve wanted to own this for what, 6-7 years? When I first heard of hot cloth cleansing from Sali Hughes, this is what she used. So for me, it’s a piece of skincare history. It’s a good cleanser, too: if you like the Aurelia Miracle Cleanser or MV Organic Skincare cream cleanser, this is a great cheaper alternative.

13. Soap & Glory Ultimelt Hot Cloth Cleanser. Well, as I said, I don’t need new cleansers. Remember that? But I had heard good things about Ultimelt, I love the packaging and it’s reasonably priced. As it turns out, this is a cheaper alternative to Liz Earle – creamy, herby and effective. Gets rid of makeup. Lovely stuff.

I’m thinking maybe I should have done this in two instalments…