As soon as the new year begins, I get tired of the comforting winter scents and start craving something that makes me think of spring. I have talked about my favourite white florals to wear in the cold, but this year I’ve been obsessed with greener options. Green florals aren’t that popular these days – they are too much for the fresh cologne brigade, too little for the gourmand and oud lovers and too austere for the fruity floral fans. I feel the genre might be making something of a comeback, however, with Tom Ford, Amouage and Jo Malone all offering their versions.

Tom Ford has a frustrating habit of doing limited edition mini collections (including such gems as Café Rose and Fleur de Chine) of four fragrances centered on one theme. This year, the theme is “green” with Vert de Bois, Vert d’Encens, Vert Bohème and Vert de Fleur exploring different facets of the note. The first two are probably the more interesting takes (definitely worth a sniff), but with my green floral obsession, I focused on the last couple. Bohème is very pretty, a mix of fresh green notes and magnolia that somehow translates almost into lily of the valley on my skin. It’s a little watery/ozonic, which I don’t mind – one of my favourite green florals ever is the sadly discontinued Gucci Envy. Ultimately, I found it a little too unexciting, but I suspect it might be the bestseller of the bunch.

Vert de Fleur isn’t necessarily more exciting, but it’s more refined. In spirit, it reminds me of Fleur de Chine, one of my absolute favourites from Ford – classy, seamlessly blended, restrained in sillage and projection, old school and modern at the same time. It starts out with the green of galbanum and a touch of hyacinth and then gets more abstractly floral from there. The middle notes are said to be iris, jasmine, orange blossom and rose, but it’s difficult to distinguish the individual flowers in the bouquet. There’s a gentle soapiness that I like and the greenness never entirely disappears. The drydown is faint on me, with pleasant traces of the flowers, vetiver and moss.

Vert de Fleur is no green monster and if you’re looking for that hard-core galbanum hit, you’re likely to be disappointed. There are, indeed, better green florals out there at lower price points. If I did not have a gift card, I would probably not have bought a bottle. That said, there is a reason why I did. While this is not the most original perfume ever, I am going to get much more wear out of it than from some of my masterpieces. It’s a great office scent – polished and understated (for me), but also intriguing and with a hint of 70s glamour. On days when Chanel No 19 seems too strict and demanding, this could be the more effortless, luxurious, sensual substitute. I can so see myself in a green silk shirt and Vert de Fleur, winter be damned.

Tom Ford is, of course, ridiculously expensive and difficult to get. To make amends for talking about it, I have rounded up some other favourites, too.

1. Chanel No 19. Chanel does green florals well, I could also have gone for Bel Respiro (a herby green floral) or my beloved Cristalle (more of a green, citrussy chypre), but in the end, No 19 is the green floral for the ages. If it’s new to you, try different versions of this sophisticated mix of galbanum, iris, classic flowers and woods to see what works best.

2. Parfums de Nicolaï Le Temps d’Une Fête. One of the most beautiful green florals ever created, this affordable beauty is now unfortunately difficult to get (you might be able to buy it when you contact the brand directly). If in No 19 the emphasis is on green, here it’s on the floral part; if one is cold, the other warm. The flowers – hyacinths, daffodils, jasmine – here are gorgeous, creamy and voluptuous.

3. Amouage Myths. Yeah, it’s not really cheaper than Tom Ford, I know. It is, however, one of the most unusual florals released by a major niche brand recently and worth trying even if you have no intention to buy it. Green, earthy, powdery, floral and mossy all at the same time.

4. Annick Goutal Le Chevrefeuille. Goutal is another brand with a knack for green. Their Heure Exquise is a great alternative to No 19 – it’s softer, so many find it easier to wear. Le Chevrefeuille is even friendlier and more floral, a lovely scent built around honeysuckle.

5. Christian Dior Diorissmo. The consensus is that this legendary lily of the valley perfume has been reformulated and sadly watered down compared to its former glory. It’s still one of the best renditions of this flower, however – especially if you can get your hands on the pure perfume. Spring in a bottle.

6. Jo Malone Neroli & Basil. Malone’s new Bloomsbury collection seems to include two green florals which I have yet to try. Until then, Neroli & Basil has to stand in. It has more flowers than the very popular Lime, Basil & Mandarin and crucially, works much, much, much better on my skin.

7. Masque Milano Romanza. Narcissus is a classic ingredient in green, springy florals, but it’s seldom painted in such bold strokes as here. Dark green and almost leathery, this one is not for the timid.

8. Balenciaga l’Essence. A sophisticated mainstream take on the theme with gentle greenery, violet and woods. Smells elegant and quite androgynous.

9. Penhaligon’s Ostara. I don’t know anyone who doesn’t like this sunny, pretty, polleny bunch of daffodils, hyacinths and wisteria. It fades quickly on me, but I seem to be the exception to the rule. If you prefer a colder, more aloof perfume, there’s also Revenge of Lady Blanche from Penhaligon’s new premium range. It’s beautiful, predictable and overpriced.

What are your favourites in this genre? And what are you wearing these days?