Radical Ruffles
I often have a problem wearing things I find traditionally, softly feminine: kitten heels, rhinestones, polite pink, ruffles. I say this knowing full well that many things I do wear could easily be classified as traditionally feminine – there is nothing objective about it, some things just look twee to me and twee is not my thing.
While I’m of course free to be as prejudiced about clothes as I want, it’s stupid to exclude things from one’s wardrobe just like that. It’s not (only) what you wear, but how you wear it. There is a difference between a kitten heel and a kitten heel and there is a huge difference between wearing the kitten heel with 50s costume and wearing it with neon socks and a leather jacket. I have been doing head-to-toe pink recently and it feels powerful rather than romantic (the key for me is to choose simple, strong shapes). I bought a pair of crystal earrings that almost reach my shoulders and enjoy them immensely.
Counterintuitively, the trick is not to tone down, but to exaggerate. When femininity is blown up, it can suddenly look pretty radical (and that’s not only the case with clothes, of course). Let’s take ruffles. There are the timid, insipid flounces usually paired with floral prints and then there are Ruffles. The Statement Ruffles (or, if you are into the fashion singular, The Statement Ruffle) can be huge or strangely placed or both. There is, probably, some play with proportion. They always make a statement. They hardly ever flatter.
This Diana Arno dress I’m wearing here is a case in point. It’s a rather summery take – I’m late to talk about it – but never mind, as the general trend isn’t going anywhere. To me, this looks like Gucci and Vetements had a baby and it turned out nicer than anyone expected. It ticks all the feminine boxes: it’s a dress, it’s pale lilac, it has ruffles and puff sleeves. But it looks anything but timid.*
It’s especially fitting that Diana Arno is a former beauty queen whose label usually produces traditionally pretty clothing (there’s absolutely nothing wrong with producing traditionally pretty clothing). But occasionally, they go over board and come out with something uninhibited and that’s where things get interesting. Women usually look for masculine shapes when they’re looking for fresh silhouettes, but you know, girls, we should maybe look at some of our own stuff, too.
*It somehow looks more modest on the picture than it does in real life.
Couldn’t agree more – I love Joseph as they quite often do an aggressively minimalist take of the hyper feminine e.g. a really androgynous pink suit or a grey fitted top with a slash/ruffle. Bizarrely I also think the traditionally hyper feminine can be given a real edge by pattern – such as Roksanda dresses which can be so beautifully tailored but then are works of art in terms of the patterns and colours. Finally I must say that sometimes an outfit such as a traditional Fifties style skirt with a kitten heel but wore with modern make up and e.g. to work can be radical – maybe it is simply by moving the traditional feminine into a modern work context that in itself makes it more radical? My current favourite approach is wearing an oversized velvet jacket over fitted dresses – harldy innovative but somehow both adds to and takes the drama away from a fitted silhouette.
These are all excellent points, I absolutely agree. And I really like how you say that something can remove one kind of drama and add another.
In some cases I guess it’s also just personal: clearly one of the reasons why this specific dress seems radical to me is that I almost never wear ruffles or this kind of silhouette.
I love this lilac occasion! It seems almost quaint (a thing I like), but the scale of this dress is terrific and changes the look entirely. And the delicate colour pairs well with exuberant lipstick shades – I saw a photo of Lydia Rodin where she was wearing a simple lilac jumper, but combined with bright pink lipstick and grey hair she looked very cool.
Thank you! I also love this colour and as you say, the scale is everything. Lilac with bright pink is great and I also love it with red – a more clashing combo, but can work so well. Rodin does look cool and have you seen that turquoise (or is it teal?) couch of hers?!
(A teal couch does sound amazing but you have a yellow chair: you win !)