On the Sustainability of Fashion, Featuring H&M Conscious

On the Sustainability of Fashion, Featuring H&M Conscious


It has taken way too long, but fashion industry is finally taking the sustainability issues seriously – although not seriously enough, yet. By fashion industry, I don’t mean just the brands: while it’s ridiculous that they’ve gotten away with doing nothing for so long, the fashion media and influential bloggers haven’t really pushed them very hard in that direction, either.

It is my personal belief that overall, we cannot expect individual consumers to save the planet through their choices. There needs to be a policy framework in place that ensures that, it is unfair to expect a single mother (or father) in rural Estonia to go through all the information, analyse it and make purchasing decisions that are right for the environment, climate, animal welfare, fair labour practices, and whatever other issues we need to tackle. This does not mean that people cannot exert pressure and cannot make better choices. Every plastic bag not purchased is one plastic bag less potentially harming the planet. Every ethically made garment represents better pay for someone and less burden on the environment.

Sustainability presents specific challenges for bloggers and influencers more broadly. People create different content, of course, but classic (life)style bloggers generally need to buy new things to provide the content, look right and keep people excited. For many (not including me, obviously:)), there are also flights to exotic places and glamorous hotels, not necessarily great for one’s carbon footprint.*

The fact is that the best thing we can do is to buy less. This is, however, not what most of us want to do. We want to keep consuming, just without the guilt. I don’t think capitalism is going away any time soon and I personally am not ready to stop buying clothes (although I have cut down). There are things we can do, though, and one of them is to go for pieces that are (more) sustainably made. While it may not solve the world’s problems, it will nudge the market in the right direction and yes, make you feel less guilty. IF we are going to consume anyway, we can at least do it a little bit better.

Through a happy coincidence, H&M was launching another of their Conscious Exclusive collections as I was thinking about this piece. This seemed like a good omen, as I did not want to buy any clothes for a piece on sustainability – for obvious reasons. Fortunately, the collection is also really lovely and H&M is doing genuinely interesting things with the materials. This is what I appreciate when it comes to H&M: they do some serious innovation which I think is necessary if we want to reconcile our desire for the new with actually having a functioning planet.

This time around, they have used orange fiber made out of citrus peel; Pinatex that is made of pineapple leaves and looks like leather (I will show you the boots soon!) and BLOOM Foam, made of algae. The blue dress I’m wearing here is literally made out wood (Tencel), sustainably managed of course, and the golden sequins of the other dress consist mostly of recycled plastic. The printed maxi dress uses more conventional organic linen, but it’s just beautiful.

I fully understand and respect that many people are suspicious of corporations and their sustainability efforts and also here, I don’t think we can have enough progress without regulatory action. That said, I think that for a big company like H&M, to already have 57% of all the materials recycled or sustainably sourced and aiming to become carbon positive by 2040, is a big deal.

Do you make any efforts to shop more sustainably? Any favourite brands?

*Before we judge them too harshly, let’s keep in mind that this is their job. Businessmen flying between continents on a regular basis are not vilified on social media for that.

Images by Getter Kuusma, MUAH by Erle Taklai. All the pieces (apart from the golden Zara sandals) by H&M Conscious Exclusive, borrowed for the shoot and available online as of 11 April. H&M helped me out with the photographer, but no other perks have been involved. I am very grateful to Oivaline for letting us shoot at their lovely cafe.

6 Comments

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  1. 1
    Mil

    Great post and those dresses are absolutely gorgeous. It’s something I’m grappling with too. I’ve just read The Uninhabitable Earth and am thinking about how to make the best choices- even though it seems that individual action is ultimately not going to help much without much wider political action and change from that level. Like you, I love clothes and style. I confess to craving novelty and whilst I’m trying to consume less, it’s tricky. I live in a rural area with very few second-hand/thrift shops. I’m trying to use eBay more and thinking about the companies I buy from- I bought my last new pair of jeans from Levi’s rather than somewhere cheap and cheerful as at least they are making an effort on the environmental side. It’s not easy though.
    I generally avoid H&M as I try not to get sucked into fast fashion but this collection sounds genuinely inspiring and I need something stunning for my husband’s 50th birthday party so I will look there now- thanks for the tip and for addressing the elephant in the room- if you love fashion, how do you square that with sustainability? Xx

    • 2
      Ykkinna

      I think many people struggle with the same dilemma. On one hand, I refuse to pretend that buying an organic cotton t-shirt makes me some sort of an eco-warrior. On the other hand, I find it unfair that people who at least try to do something are immediately called hypocrites, when their efforts are not perfect. There is also no denying that sustainable clothes are more expensive and I don’t want to lecture people on what they should spend, knowing that many don’t have much choice in the matter. Ultimately, I think it’s much more important to vote for people who take climate change end environmental issues seriously.

      I’m generally fully with you on avoiding fast fashion. I think we have seen the peak of that trend, though, and most of them need to rethink the way they operate. Specifically on this collection: there are some very nice pieces, so it’s well worth checking out.

  2. 3
    Eliza

    Thoroughly enjoying your recent posts on fashion and consumption, and madly in love with this shoot. That sequinned dress! 🙂 🙂 🙂

  3. 5
    Suzanne

    This year I was saving up for a few big life expenditures and so started doing much more of my clothes shopping on eBay. I also zoned in on a few shops that have clothes I will wear for multiple seasons. I’ve definitely moved away from fast fashion and so haven’t shopped in H&M for ages but some of those dresses are stunning. I think rather than window shopping I use your blog. Some of the most interesting fashion writing I’ve found on this website so I’ve also cut down on buying fashion magazines too 😉

    • 6
      Ykkinna

      What a lovely compliment, thank you! I don’t mean to say mine is better, but I personally find a lot of fashion writing rather boring these days. I used to devour style magazines for years, now I often don’t even read the ones I buy. I also feel there is a gap in the market when it comes to people like me: there are lots of young influencers who either do high street hauls or luxury insta-fashion, and then there are magazines that may get my taste right, but mostly feature very expensve pieces. If you are a grown-up person with a serious interest in style while not having unlimited funds, finding content that is exactly right isn’t that easy.

      What are the shops/brands you prefer these days?

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