As the heatwave continues (it’s going to be 37 degrees in Brussels today), I have been contemplating my skincare routine. I fully understand when people do not want to put anything on their skin in this heat and if you can get away with cleansing, a hydrating serum and an SPF, by all means, embrace this minimal routine. I have discovered, however, that although I might be sweaty, my dehydration actually gets worse in this weather and I would recommend paying attention to that, if you haven’t.

The number of steps in my routine hasn’t therefore really come down, but what I use is lighter and more focused on hydration and protection rather than active treatment. I haven’t put retinol products on my face – or even strong vitamin C – for a while and my skin has been looking surprisingly great (in the context of me being 38 and never having had particularly amazing skin to begin with). I’m sure I’ll return to more hard core stuff in the autumn, but for the moment I’m happy – and sunshine isn’t great for strong actives anyway.

So here’s what I’ve been using in the mornings:

1. Cleanser. This is one step where you need in fact be more thorough in this weather. More so in the evening, of course (to remove SPF and sweat and grime), but I’m craving a proper cleanse in the morning as well. I’ve been consistently reaching for the gentle and light Glossier Milky Jelly Cleanser – I didn’t expect to love it as much as I do, but it’s just very consistent and nice and never creates any problems. If I need something more thorough, Tatcha’s Deep Cleanse is great as well (as would be Tata Harper Purifying Cleanser, but I’m out of it). Sometimes I gravitate towards Odacite’s Green Ceremony Cleanser. It’s in fact a bit drying for me, but the green powder (matcha! spirulina!) turns into the most satisfying mousse when mixed with water, so I’ve been using it anyway. Sometimes I mix a small dose with another cleanser, which is potentially the best way to use it.

2. Acid toner. This is the step I thought I would abandon in summer (acids make the skin more sensitive to the sun), but I feel that in the absence of retinoids, I do need it. I keep it relatively light, though, and don’t experiment. Pixi Glow Tonic is my go-to most mornings and helps my skin stay smooth and free of build-up.

3. Toner/essence. This may seem superfluous, but to keep my skin properly hydrated, I have been using a toner or an essence every morning, without fail. I often do a few layers, as discussed here. On the picture, I’ve got Omorovicza’s Omoressence and it’s lovely, but the price is ridiculous. I think something like the Klairs toner would be as effective, at least for hydrating purposes.

4. Hydrating serum. Yes, there is a theme emerging here… Again, this can seem excessive, considering the next step I’m going to tell you about. But experience shows that multiple layers of stuff work best for me. The serum I’ve mostly used to fight dehydration has been Jordan Samuel’s appropriately named Hydrate, but any hyaluronic acid based serum you like would do the job. Another one I’ve used in this stage is Dr Roebuck’s Perky Collagen Boosting Serum. I know this is a more complex product, but I have found it especially effective when it comes to hydrating and plumping.

5. Antioxidant serum. Yeah, I know, I know. Two serums. But with the sun glaring like this, I feel my skin needs the help of vitamin C and other antioxidants to protect it. I am currently alternating Dr Dennis Gross vitamin C serum and Joanna Vargas Daily Serum, both are great (I prefer Dr Gross, though, it’s one of my favourite brands). Drunk Elephant’s C-Firma would also be perfect, I used it mixed with B-Hydra until I ran out of the first.

6. A light moisturiser. If you have had enough hydration by now, you could move straight from your serum to the SPF, especially if it’s a moisturising one. Sometimes I do that. But again (and I sound like a broken record), mostly I feel like I need all the hydration I can get, so I use a lightweight moisturiser before the final step. I really like Drunk Elephant’s B-Hydra for that or Youth to the People’s Superfood cream (not pictured). If I still had any of the Sisley Black Rose moisturiser left, that would be excellent as well.

7. Eye cream. Now, this *is* a step I often skip, I’ll just use my face products under the eyes as well. However, when I wake up with puffy eyes – and that happens much more than usual in this weather – I’ll use The Ordinary Caffeine Solution 5% right after cleansing or maybe after the toner/essence stage. It takes down the swelling and helps me look more awake. If I feel I need something more, Drunk Elephant C-Tango is my current favourite.

8. Sunscreen. I’m sure I don’t have to tell you about the importance of using SPF. There are the health reasons, obviously, but also if you are interested in clear and fresh-looking skin that is free of hyperpigmentation, I suggest you slather it on (I’m not perfect in this department, but I’m MUCH better than I used to be). My favourite SPFs tend to be on the drier side, so they don’t really help much with keeping the skin hydrated (hence all that obsessive activity earlier), but they are effective and feel/look good on skin. On the photo is the De Mamiel physical sunscreen that also gives a very slight tint. Others I love are by Biore and Mecca and The Body Shop one isn’t bad if you cannot access Japanese and Australian brands. For something more moisturising, I like Zelens, Eve Lom and Coola.

I pretty much go through the same steps at night, with the addition of double cleansing and sometimes amping up the acid. As always, please don’t feel that you should have a similarly elaborate routine. This is just an honest account of what works for me, shared in the hope that it might be helpful for some of you. If you have found products that you especially enjoy in summer, please tell me in the comments!