Best of 2016: Skincare

Best of 2016: Skincare


I love best-of lists, but they are always more difficult to write then I expect – and I really should know by now. Skincare is particularly troublesome: I test and use a lot and most of it is good, but I’ve become very tough to impress unconditionally. In addition to this, it’s often hard to tell if something is working or it’s just one’s hormones behaving better than usual.

Anyway, here are my picks for 2016. The pictures are illustrative, as I don’t have all of my absolute favourites on hand at the moment. But everything you see, I’ve liked.

1. Cleanser. I only bought Tata Harper’s Purifying Cleanser in December, but I love it and cleansers can be judged quickly. It’s pretty much my perfect second/morning cleanse: brightening, refreshing, noticeably purifying. If you want even more purifying action, NIOD Sanskrit Saponins is very effective and unlike any other cleanser I’ve tried. My love for Caudalie’s oil cleanser hasn’t diminished and I’ll add a shout-out to Pixi’s affordable balm.

2. Acid toner. This is the year I bought Biologique Recherché P50 lotion/toner. Mine isn’t the original version, but even the “sensitive skin” option (P50W) is strong and very effective. It also lasts a long time. For something gentler, Zelens PHA+ pads are beautiful, but insanely expensive. And there’s always last year’s favourite Pixi Glow Tonic that now also comes in the pad format (I prefer the liquid, but pads are great for travelling).

3. Mist. I didn’t mist much this year, but when I did, May Lindstrom’s Jasmine Garden was my favorite. It smells fantastic, hydrates well and calms effectively. Among mainstream options, Clinique Moisture Surge spray is great.

4. Essence. The reason I didn’t mist much was that I used essences instead. Not too many of them, though, as I’ve been pretty loyal to SK-II Facial Treatment Essence. It makes my face look and feel better and I completely understand why it’s a cult product. Great stuff.

5. Serum. I’ve used many nice serums this year, but the standouts were Dr Dennis Gross Ferulic + Retinol overnight serum (have I really not spoken about it on the blog?) and Sunday Riley Good Genes (yes, still). If you want something moisturising and mainstream, Chanel Hydra Beauty Micro Serum is lovely. I’ve sneaked a couple of others in below, too…

6. Moisturiser. I don’t usually get excited by moisturisers, but this has been a stellar year for them. If I had to pick one, it would be Sunday Riley Tidal: a brightening, hydrating gel-cream that works well for both night and day. Fortunately, I don’t have to choose, so I can also enjoy Zelens 3t Complex, SK-II R.N.A. Power, Kate Somerville Goat Milk and Dr Dennis Gross Firming Peptide Milk, from the richest to the most lightweight. They are all excellent.

7. Eye cream. For evening, my absolute favourite was Dr Dennis Gross Ferulic + Retinol Cream, for morning Sunday Riley Start Over and for travelling Kate Somerville Goat Milk balm stick (I loved all three goat milk products and the cleanser would certainly have been included in this list, if it hadn’t congealed in the tube before I finished it). For extra nourishment, Chanel Le Lift and SK-II R.N.A. Power eye cream are hard to beat.

8. Mask. My top picks in this category are NIOD Flavanone Mud for a deep cleanse and Biologique Recherché Masque Vivant for brightness and all-around skin health. Both perform very well, but come with a caveat. Flavanone Mud is one of the few skincare products that makes my skin react quite strongly. I know there is supposed to be a warming and tingling sensation, but on me, it really is quite strong. With Masque Vivant, the issue is the scent: it contains yeast and smells vile. I am not overstating the case, trust me. But I love the results.

9. SPF. I used quite a few nice ones over the year, but in the end, Biore UV Aqua Rich outperformed all of them. It’s affordable, but unfortunately difficult to get – at least in Europe. I will see next year if the much-praised The Body Shop sunscreen will work as a replacement.

10. Ingredients. This has been a year of retinol and C-Vitamin for me (plus my old friends acids and a new exciting acquaintance, fermentation). I’ve used retinol almost every single night (it’s not something everyone’s skin can tolerate, but mine can) and C-Vitamin every single day. More than any product, I believe that I have this general approach to thank for almost zero breakouts and much-faded – although not entirely gone – sunspots. I loved the entire Dr Dennis Gross Ferulic + Retinol series: in addition to things already praised, the pads were fantastic, although way overpriced for someone who wanted to use them every day. I also liked Kate Somerville DermalQuench Liquid Lift + Retinol and Retinol eye cream; Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair and Age Reversal Eye Complex; SkinCeuticals 0.3% retinol (because I couldn’t get the stronger ones); Dr Brandt Overnight Resurfacing Serum and The Ordinary Advanced Retinoid 2%. For day (C-Vitamin and antioxidants) let me mention Oskia Brightlight, SkinCeuticals Phloretine CF and Obagi Vitamin C serum.

I’m sorry that this isn’t very succinct, but hopefully it’s still useful. What did you like this year? I realise now that I haven’t covered many of my favourites in any detail, so let me know if you’re specifically interested in something. As a heads-up, separate posts on makeup, perfume and books are on their way.

11 Comments

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  1. 1
    Violetnat

    Top list! Love many of your favourites too. I still need to try SR Tidal creme. I don’t care much for creams (but all about serums!) so they are always at the bottom of my list ?

    • 2
      Ykkinna

      Thanks! And I’m generally the same as you, always much more interested in serums than in creams. But as I said, this year I’ve discovered some really nice ones (maybe because my expectations were relatively low) and have been enjoying using them. When it’s colder, I also feel I seriously need a proper moisturiser, otherwise my skin just doesn’t stay moisturised. What are your top favourites from 2016?

  2. 3
    Johanob

    Glad to see the Zelens feature,I have started using a face cleanser and the shiso bodywash a week or so ago,so we will see how it goes!Question!I always see you mention “second cleanse”,is that standard for your face?Or do you have to do a second cleanse because of make-up?I have actually begun to second cleanse my face as well,even though I do not wear make-up,being a boy and all…lol.But!Since I started doing a second cleanse,my skin seems less oily,my moisturiser and serum also seems to be doing a better job(Vichy+Nuxe combo currently).My skin actually looks more plump,healthy and fresh,and that is the only thing I changed:doing a second cleanse each time.good advice in other words!Lol.x

    • 4
      Ykkinna

      I double cleanse almost every night, even if I don’t wear makeup: partly because I usually wear SPF (difficult to remove) and partly because I like cleansing. Some experts say that double cleansing is not necessary – and I can see how it might be counterproductive for very sensitive skin -, but it works for me. If you do one only, you have to be very thorough and especially when I wear a lot of makeup, I just want a separate cleanse without all the mascara and lipstick moving around on my face. This summer, there was a period when I didn’t double cleanse and my skin got worse after a couple of days.

      Zelens is a great brand, good choices!

  3. 6
    SophieC

    Great list thank you. I always enjoy reading your lists and approach to skincare. I think I mentioned I am using very effective but not overly exciting stuff that was recommended and it is doing a good job. I do though have lots of stuff which I hope to use soon and was very impressed by the Sunday Riley cream. The Caudalie cleanser is great and like you I really do feel a second cleanse is important. Probably my best discovery of the year is Elta Md sunscreen. Happy New Year!

    • 7
      Ykkinna

      The Elta sunscreen is on my list for 2017, I’ve become so much better at wearing one now that I’ve found some I actually like. And Amore Pacific has a cushion one that I think would be perfect for reapplication during the day (I still struggle with that). I often feel that the really effective clinical products can be a bit bland, that’s why I need diferent cleansers and essences and stuff to add excitement. Btw, there is a new Sunday Riley C-Vitamin cream coming – US Sephora already has it, in case you want to order or are going to the States. It’ll launch in UK in April… Sigh. I also finally got Vintner’s Daughter, but the jury is out. Thank you for the support and all your comments and Happy New Year!

  4. 8
    Deathlesstess

    I’m your opposite, always wore creams but never serums or essences 🙂 I really should get into that, and I’m really curious about the SK-II Essence. Will have to buy it.

    • 9
      Ykkinna

      I do wear creams, but they just never excite me… Or at least that used to be the case. If you have good skin, you can of course do very well without serums or essences, but if you want to target a specific concern, serums really are much more effective than moisturisers. And SK-II is great: if you are at an airport, they often have those value sets with a small bottle of essence included. These are a really good way to try what is, let’s admit, a very expensive product.

  5. 10
    gk

    Hi! For sunscreen, I suggest Actinica Liposomal sunscreen 50+.
    I had to stop using Japanese sunscreens because I became sensitive to alcohol in the formulations.
    Actinica is Swiss I think, so it should be available for you in Europe?

    • 11
      Ykkinna

      Yes, the alcohol content is an issue with most Japanese sunscreens. It doesn’t seem to affect my skin, but most people are more sensitive than I am.

      Actinica looks very promising, thank you for the recommendation – I’ll try to track it down!

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