I hesitate to call myself a Chanel girl, as their classics aren’t really my favourites. I have, however, been a fan of the Les Exclusifs line since I was able to try it more than 15 years ago. If you are a long-time reader of the blog, you know I have written about some of these scents before. But I have been wanting to revisit them – partly just out of curiosity, to see if my taste has changed, partly because I don’t hear people talk about them much. Or at least as much as they deserve.

As the name suggests, this is Chanel’s more exclusive line – both in terms of price and distribution. It used to be sold only in their boutiques, but now you can find them in many airports and Chanel counters across the world. There are 19 scents all together and Chanel is generally rather disciplined with expanding the line, which I appreciate. The latest launch, Comete, came out in 2024. About half of them have extrait versions (recently relaunched), but I am only going to cover the ‘standard’ Eau de Parfum options, because there is no easy way for me to properly test all the extraits without going bankrupt.

To keep these posts manageable both for you and for me, I have split the line into three parts. I plan to post one in the autumn (i.e. now), one in winter and one in spring and try to broadly match the scents to the seasons. Of course, you can wear all of them whenever you want, I just needed an organising principle. Which also means that this instalment is heavily biased towards woody, ambery and leathery fragrances.

Sycomore. Not everyone loves Sycomore but those who do, tend to really, really love it. It’s one of the best vetivers in existence – dry, very elegant, slightly smoky. Although it’s named after a deciduous tree, to me it smells very clearly and mostly of vetiver. If you are not familiar with the note, to me it smells like a very complex green wood (technically, it’s a grass). There are other woods and some aldehydes, for that Chanel touch. Vanilla and violet are listed, but they are there to round up the composition, not make a statement. I suspect it’s difficult to like Sycomore if you don’t like vetiver, but if you do, this will potentially become one of your favourite scents of all time. I find the opening a little bit sharp for my taste these days, but once it mellows, it’s perfect. It is generally considered to be more on the masculine side of the spectrum and if you happen to be a man of sophisticated sensibilities, I would definitely recommend it. But I think I love it even more on women. On everyone, it’s a sign of impeccable taste: it is so disciplined that it’s almost austere, but refinement is often found in restraint.

Coromandel. This is in many ways the opposite of Sycomore, although both are very much woody scents. Where Sycomore is cool and lean, Coromandel is soft, warm and rich. I have to admit I always thought it had a heavy dose of sandalwood, but in fact it’s not listed at all. I think it’s the creamy woodiness that gives me that sandalwood impression (and there may be some in there, of course, just not listed). The main woody note is patchouli, but it’s such a gorgeously cuddly version that I don’t fully register it as patchouli, apart from a little earthy mustiness in the beginning. There is also a gentle spicyness combined with amber, resins and vanilla, but Coromandel is neither a gourmand nor overly sweet. To me, it really shines in the dry-down, managing to be stunning and comfortable all at once. If you want a cosy autumn-winter scent that still has the structure and elegance of a Chanel, this is a wonderful option.

Bois des Iles. I am already worried about how many times I am going to use the word ‘elegant’ in these Chanel posts, but I cannot think of a better description of Bois des Iles than ‘elegant melancholy’. That sandalwood I’ve been imagining in Coromandel is definitely present in Bois des Iles, combined with florals – ylang ylang in particular. It is cooler and less sweet than Coromandel, so if the latter is too cozy for you, this could be a better alternative. Despite the very evident floral element, I do not find this particularly feminine. It shares some DNA with Egoiste, which is of course marketed to men. Personally, I actually prefer Egoiste, but this is very much a question of taste, not quality. Egoiste is more opulent and forceful, with more rose, spices and fruits (thinking about it really makes me want to wear it). But it is not better than Bois des Iles, the latter is just more restrained and refined, while still being rich.  

No 18. Out of all the Chanels I have smelled – and I have smelled many – I find No 18 most difficult to describe. I have included it here with the woody family, because the Chanel website calls it a woody-floral-musky scent. And to be sure, there is definitely sandalwood in this, but I would never describe it as a sandalwood fragrance, and to my mind, it is not a floral scent either. A vegetal, strangely aristocratic musk is the closest I can manage, with ambrette seed playing a central role. Ambrette is not a particularly well known note and it is a bit of a chameleon, too: a musky fragrance with powdery, earthy and even fruity facets. These are all present here, supported by some iris, florals and the aforementioned sandalwood. No 18 is the oddest of the exclusifs and most people tend to dismiss it, as there are so many easier-to-like fragrances in the line. But if you are interested in something unique and a bit challenging, it is well worth exploring. It rewards patience and a discerning nose.

Le Lion. When Le Lion came out a few years ago, there was an unusual level of hype, especially for a limited-distribution Chanel release. And I understand why: this is a serious amber fragrance that makes a statement. It felt like a bold move at a time when everyone was playing it safe: among the fragrances composed for the Chinese market, this one was for the Middle East (where it was in fact first launched). It reminds me – and many others – of Shalimar, another iconic amber fragrance, its bergamot opening contrasting with the sweater dry-down. But Le Lion is more modern, woodier (patchouli again) and smokier. To me, there’s also a leathery quality to it, of a tarry variety. Personally, I respect Le Lion, but do not love it: ambers are not always for me and this one is particularly hard-hitting. You should definitely try it, though, especially if you enjoy big ambers – this is a very good example and many people with excellent taste absolutely love it. It’s also a very sexy scent and I would absolutely not mind smelling it on any man or woman I happened to fancy.

Cuir de Russie. If you are not new to this blog, you already know what’s coming. Cuir de Russie is not only one of my favourite Chanel fragrances, but one of my favourites of all time. It is a leather scent and not shy about it, but wrapped in a very Chanel package – aldehydes, iris, jasmine. The balancing act between saddle soap and a lady’s purse, horse and powder is exquisite, in my view. The aldehydes are subdued in this one, compared to Chanel No 5 or 22, but together with musk create this soapy, skin-like impression that I enjoy so much. It is definitely not for everyone, though, and not something to buy blind. Those looking for a true Russian leather (the tarry, rough variety) may be disappointed – the birch tar element is there, but this is birch tar done the Parisian way. If you are after something really powerful, I actually recommend trying Le Lion: it’s less about leather, but has that intensity that people often crave from leather fragrances. For those who do not like leather at all or prefer a very light touch, this Cuir de Russie is probably still too much, despite the smoothness and elegance (yes, I know, I said it again). It also has a vintage feel. To me, it doesn’t feel dated, but classic in the best way, but it’s probably not for those who want a very modern composition.

This is it for part 1. It has been interesting and rewarding to (re)smell these scents. Let me know what you think of the exclusifs and see you in part 2.