We have been promised the end of quiet luxury and the return of maximalism a number of times now, but looking at the upcoming autumn/winter fashion, this time it may actually happen. Of course, the runways alone mean nothing – high fashion has been offering much more than stealth wealth or old money for several seasons (or more precisely, all the time). Still, there does seem to be a larger change in the air.

I believe there are two main reasons for that. The first is rather obvious: the pendulum of fashion always goes back and forth. We have been on the minimalist end for such a long time that there had to be a change at some point. In the case of minimalism and quiet luxury – or whatever you want to call this megatrend that favours neutral tones, quality fabrics and simple cuts – this is emphasized by the fact that it can get boring. I am a lover of beige, cream and taupe, but people get visually tired of monochromatic neutral outfits. It can be stylish, but often not particularly exciting, so there is a logical craving for something more creative.

The other reason is less obvious and in some ways the opposite of the first. Because in some ways, this new, elaborate mood is the continuation of its opposite trend. The point of quiet luxury was, well, the luxury – the quality, the sumptuousness, the feeling of having something special that is really, really well made. But with all the dupes and cheapification of this trend, the original meaning was lost. If you can buy a quiet luxury piece from H&M for 14.99 and it’s made of polyester, we are left with the visual side of the trend only. I am not saying this to vilify those who do not have the luxury budget, just to explain the dynamics as I see them; my own feelings on quiet luxury are rather complex to begin with. Anyway, my point is that people are chasing the same feeling of luxury and specialness but taking a different route this time: via things that are more difficult to copy (embroidery, embellishments, beading, lace) and/or take more effort (unusual colour and print combinations, statement pieces).

So what does this new maximalism look like? Honestly, pretty gorgeous. I am almost exasperated that this has happened, as I was pretty happy with my tasteful wardrobe of cashmere and leather and understated bags. If there is one thing that can be said for quiet luxury, it IS easy to wear and put together: you pick your neutrals and invest in some beautiful knits and tailoring and voila – everything is easy to combine and looks grown up and classy. But I know myself well and I am therefore certain that I will not be able to resist when some of my favourite things will be back in fashion.

And they are. Perhaps the most dangerous one for me is the return of statement fabrics – brocades, jacquards, Asian-inspired prints, taffeta, tweed, lace. I adore all of them. There is also the return of ladylike tailoring and there are very few things I love more than a pencil skirt. Jewel tones are also back, with purple leading the way, but there are also dark blue, cherry red, emerald, chartreuse and teal. Heritage (translation: I want to look like I own a country house in England) is almost always a huge trend for autumn and it’s definitely the case this year, with an added heirloom touch (translation: my estate in fact goes back to the 12^th century and the house is crumbling, but I have kept all my great-great-grandmother’s pieces). Then there are the twenties and art deco, with all the fringe, beading, tassels, velvet, feathers, kimonos, geometric motifs and fur trims you can imagine.

So there is much to love and I believe the vibe shift is real. But if you watch fashion influencers (as I do, for my sins), you’d think that absolutely everything is going to change drastically. This is of course not the case, as most people are not comfortable in head-to-toe opulence and will not be switching out their entire wardrobe. What I do think we are going to see a lot in real life is combining the more basic pieces – that we all have collected over the quiet luxury years – with statement jackets or skirts, adding more colour via a purple sweater or chartreuse taffeta trousers and zhuzhing things up with a fringed shawl or large earrings.

I am not the first to say this, but the biggest shift is perhaps the renewed focus on styling. This makes full sense, as all these new trends require a bit more than just putting five taupe things together. And even for those who want to stay true to a more minimalist approach, styling helps to add interest and counteract the basicness that can be an issue with a more restrained style.

In case you have read my previous post, you know that I’m not buying any clothes at the moment (at least until mid-October). But I’m thinking of posting my wish list, so let me know if that would be of interest to you.