My enthusiasm for perfume goes up and down. I discovered the world of niche fragrances almost 20 years ago and was in a full obsession mode for years. Since then, I have calmed down and there are periods where I buy hardly any scents at all (at least by my own definition, I guess most people would still consider it too much). And then there are times when the old flame flares again and I think about perfume an inordinate amount. This summer has been one of those times.

That said, even during my obsessive periods I do not buy or test anywhere near the amounts that serious fragrance influencers do these days. It’s also not what I aspire to, as it requires a level of finances and/or commitment that I am not willing to invest. I mention it only to manage your expectations – there are many, many fragrances from popular brands that I haven’t tried and very few that I’ve tested properly. With that caveat, here’s my rotation from this summer.

Lilyphéa by Diptyque. Lilyphéa is the scent of this summer for me, which is rather unfortunate, as it’s expensive, fleeting and difficult to get. I smelled it years ago in London when Les Essences line came out and I do recall liking it a lot. But it was only a quick sniff at the store and that’s usually not how I like to buy perfume. Until this summer that is, when I saw Lilyphéa talked about on Instagram and developed an urgent need to buy it. Fortunately or unfortunately, depending on your point of view, I was visiting Brussels, where there’s one shop (Senteurs d’Ailleurs) that carries it. I tested it for about 10 minutes and bought it on the spot. Fortunately (this time definitely fortunately) I love it – it is green, watery and a bit floral, a fantasy waterlily. The official main notes are violet (yes), cardamom (maybe) and vanilla (no, at least not in amounts that would make you think that this is a vanilla perfume in any capacity). It smells like a fairy pond.

Eau Sauvage by Dior. This is an old spring-summer favourite and I bought a new bottle this year – a decision I can only congratulate myself on. Created by the legendary Edmond Roudnitska, this is truly a masterpiece, but a very accessible one. It’s no Mitsouko: I estimate that about 95% of people would immediately get it and enjoy wearing it. Eau Sauvage is an easy but polished, fresh, gorgeous citrus on a light chypre base. Technically it’s a masculine fragrance, but if you are not a man, I implore you to ignore this stupid marketing decision. Eau Sauvage can easily be worn by anyone; you’ll feel immaculate while being completely at ease.

Carrot Blossom by Jo Malone. In contrast to a classic we have this spring’s limited edition Carrot Blossom. I admit that I find Jo Malone’s limited editions ridiculously difficult to resist. This time, I particularly liked the bottles and Carrot Blossom was my favourite from the trio that also included Scarlet Beetroot and Velvety Butternut. I don’t find Carrot Blossom particularly carroty, it’s rather a gentle, musky and powdery floral. But there is a slightly earthy, vegetal twist to it and a bit of light spice from fennel. Not earth-shattering, but a lovely scent that doesn’t quite smell like anything else I’ve tried.

Wood Sage & Sea Salt by Jo Malone. I didn’t realise that I have two Jo Malones on the list*, but it’s not particularly surprising, as I tend to have a travel size of WS&SS with me wherever I go in the summer. It is great for any seaside location and it’s deeply inoffensive in the best way. I have talked about it several times on the blog, so I will not go into it, apart from noting that the new Sea Salt & Bergamot is nice, too.

Week-End in Normandy by Parfums de Nicolai. Talking about seaside locations, I have been wearing Week-End in Normandy since it was still called Week-End in Deauville, certainly for more than ten years. Although the name evokes the sea, to me it smells more like countryside – green, herby, woody-mossy and somewhat floral. Like Eau Sauvage, it is a relaxed scent, but at the same time also classic, structured and French. The same person who wears Eau Sauvage in the city could easily wear Week-End in Normandy in… Normandy.

Fleur Narcotique by Ex Nihilo. When I have wanted to feel glamorous this summer, I have worn Fleur Narcotique. I no longer wear white florals as much as I used to, but I still love them and in certain situations, nothing else will do. This one is luscious, in addition to jasmine and orange blossom it also includes different fruits (litchi and peach), making it a sophisticated white fruity floral with a lactonic touch. It smells beautiful, but the bad news is that the extrait smells even better – deeper and gorgeouser.

Vanille Soleil by Roger & Gallet. If you just want a summer beach scent, you could do much worse than Vanille Soleil. Yes, it’s a vanilla, but it’s not overly sweet, in fact the overall effect is rather transparent and there’s perhaps even an aquatic touch (I may be imagining things after seeing sea salt in the notes). There are tropical florals, but these are not overpowering – it is a simple, well balanced scent. Frankly, I prefer it to the Bronze Goddess these days and the price point is fantastic.

Mango Sticky Rice by d’Annam. Have I changed my mind about gourmands? Not really. I have never disliked all gourmands and Mango Sticky Rice is not your regular gourmand in any case. I went into the store with my mind set on d’Annam’s White Rice, but I seem to be anosmic to some of it. I tried a few others from the line and Mango Sticky Rice hooked me immediately, despite not having as much of a mango note as I initially expected/hoped (I love mango). To me, this is mostly about nutty, buttery rice that almost smells musky, and light, somewhat artificial but pleasant mango. It doesn’t sound like much, but somehow it melds into an addictive skin scent on me. I would not buy it blind, but if it works for you, it really works.

Champaca by Ormonde Jayne. Fittingly, I have been wearing the hell out of the scent that introduced me to rice in perfumery many, many years ago. Champaca is a very pretty tropical floral that would be boring without the greenness of bamboo, a touch of tea and a steamed rice note. If you are weary of florals but do like green, fresh scents, this could be a good gateway option. If you already like florals, this is lovely in spring and summer – and any other time of the year, of course, but I prefer it in warmer weather when heavier florals ca be too much.

Philosykos by Diptyque. You have seen this scent on my lists for years, but it’s usually the EdP version. This year, I got my craving for a fig perfume in the middle of the heatwave, so the greener and sharper EdT seemed like a better idea. And it was at the time, but overall I still prefer the EdP for its fruitier nature. I have a feeling that come Autumn, I may regret my decision, but it never hurts to have any version of Philosykos in one’s collection.

Santal & Vetiver by Salt & Stone. One scent I will definitely continue wearing into Autumn in Santal & Vetiver. On one hand, it’s woody and dry, on the other, it’s light and transparent, which makes it work remarkably well in any season. I am very impressed with the quality and sophistication of this 40-euro body mist. I am absolutely sincere when I say that I’d rather wear this than most of the new luxury releases on the market. If I cannot think of anything to spray, I can always grab this – even if I change my mind later, it only leaves a light veil and layers well with almost everything.

These are of course not the only perfumes I’ve been wearing this summer (although in August this was pretty much it, as bringing any more scents with me would have bordered on unhinged). There are two more I wanted to mention. First, Bal d’Afrique Absolu – this is technically my partner’s scent, but as I bought it for him, I feel I am entitled to borrow it on occasion (he borrows my scents with abandon). I have always liked Bal d’Afrique, but the Absolu I adore. Such gorgeous, deep fruitiness! The other is Jasmine Haze by Reservation – I have now tried it several times and I love the jasmine note in this. I already own a number of great jasmine scents, but Jasmine Haze has a nice lived-in quality. It is a natural, musky jasmine. If it wasn’t for mediocre longevity, I would probably own this already.

It may not be the most useful thing to talk about summer fragrances in the end of summer, but the way most of Europe is looking at the moment, I think we can expect to wear summer scents for a while still. And of course, no fragrance is restricted to a specific time of the year. What have you been wearing or planning to wear?

*”The list” is in fact simply everything I brought with me to Estonia.