Sometimes, my perfume hobby makes me despair. There are so many new launches that keeping up with them is impossible, not to mention time-consuming and expensive. I know there is no need to smell everything on the market, but I would like to have at least a general overview of what’s out there and even that is extremely difficult. The whole thing can be overwhelming and exhausting, not exciting and joyful as it should. Why don’t I just wear my existing favourites (of which I have many), instead of speed-sniffing the new stuff that is probably not better?

And yet, and yet. There are moments that make it all worth while. This summer, I smelled Teresa Helbig’s perfumes, almost incidentally. I was probably drawn to the minimalist packaging and the names (Old Money is a genius name if you ask me and A Buldog in the Atelier isn’t bad either), so I gave them a sniff. All four are good – and I appreciate that the line is small -, but Old Money stood out for me immediately.

This is remarkable, considering that it’s not a statement perfume. Sophisticated and classy, yes, but also effortless. I think it’s the fig that makes it so friendly, although I doubt anyone would call it a fruity scent. It’s a subtle, light mix of the aforementioned fig, vetiver, wood, plum and leather, with a hint of spices and something floral (notes say violet and lily of the valley, but I would definitely not have guessed the second). Cistus gives it a gentle sweetness that I didn’t really notice until I tried it next to more citrussy scents. It’s a modern, very wearable take on the library/country club theme, one of my favourite perfume genres.

Of all the perfumes I own, I think Morning Chess has a similar vibe, although it’s much more fruity and cologne-y. I can see you liking Old Money if you like Diptyque Philosykos and Olfactive Studio Lumiere Blanche, possibly mixed together. There are also echoes of Feminite du Bois and Byredo’s Bibliotheque (now available as personal fragrance, not only a candle), but in the end of the day it’s very much its own perfume.

I have been glad to discover that it’s a huge crowd pleaser: my colleagues, both male and female, all love it and they aren’t necessarily huge perfume aficionados. There is an interesting pattern there, as they also love Morning Chess and Jo Malone Blackberry & Bay. This all-encompassing love is very convenient, as I’ve been wearing this scent very often and plan to continue: it’s fantastic for autumn and goes extra well with this season’s tweeds and tan leather.

If you come across Teresa Helbig’s line (apparently it’s a Spanish fashion house that I had never heard of), I highly recommend giving it a try. In Brussels, it’s available in Kroonen & Brown.